Low voltage on finished Crack (repost)

tsuid1 · 2444

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Offline tsuid1

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Reply #30 on: February 13, 2020, 10:19:11 AM
Thanks PB. Are you referring to my current description? I wetted and added solder to any cold joints I could find and the tonality went from dark to neutral. 



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #31 on: February 13, 2020, 10:23:28 AM
Can you post a bunch of photos of the build? 

Wetting the joints may not be what you need to do, often what I do is to heat the joint until it flows out, then give it a few more seconds of heat.  For everything but the joints where the LEDs connect, this can take a bit of time. 

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline tsuid1

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Reply #32 on: February 13, 2020, 01:53:11 PM
Here you go. I tried to take as many angles as I could. Apologies if it's a little low on quality. I took the advice from the thread on soldering, but as you can tell it's still not great.

I realize the first joint doesn't have the wire bent correctly, so I'm fixing that as we speak.




Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #33 on: February 13, 2020, 05:00:34 PM
You are either dealing with a soldering iron that won't get hot enough (45W minimum, if it's adjustable, turn it all the way up) or lead free solder.  It also helps to wrap component leads and wires around the terminals so the solder has a place to go. 

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Deluk

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Reply #34 on: February 14, 2020, 02:15:03 AM
The earth tag on white input terminal picture 14 is an example of a decent solder joint. i.e. not too much solder, and is smooth and shiny. Try and match this standard throughout.

I can recommend Cardas solder. A little expensive but if you don't solder on a daily basis a small coil like this will do a Crack and Speedball with leftovers. Very easy melt and flow and very nice to use.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/162116066532?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=162116066532&targetid=855313181933&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006618&poi=&campaignid=6619151996&mkgroupid=88031187549&rlsatarget=pla-855313181933&abcId=1140496&merchantid=115579357&gclid=CjwKCAiAp5nyBRABEiwApTwjXrtCnfX1PiXqulglv6DOdNjZauBIZ64ltrTdOnkYQMEdJ4WzpH_1XhoChcwQAvD_BwE



Deke609

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Reply #35 on: February 14, 2020, 03:31:23 AM
+1 on Deluk's recommendation of Cardas Quad Eutectic solder. Despite its silver content, in my limited experience it melts and flows more easily than any other solder I've used. For lower temp soldering (e.g., with an iron that doesn't put out many watts), it works extremely well.

Besides price, the only downside I've found to the stuff is that its rosin leaves a brownish crust on the joint. But the crust is easily removed if you don't like the appearance. I usually leave it.