Eros 2 Degradation

jaloyn · 5901

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Offline jaloyn

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on: October 25, 2024, 08:24:01 AM
I'm new here.  I'm having problems with my Eros 2 phono pre-amp, and looking for suggestions.  First a little history:  I purchased the kit approx. 4 years ago.  I jumped in and almost finished the kit, but realized I had soldered a piece in the wrong place and would have to re-work the affected areas of the circuit.  Then, tragedy hit, my wife of 47 years was instantly killed in a car accident.  My life changed dramatically.  One of those changes was working on my kit...I let it go.  About a year ago, I contacted the Bottlehead queen (Eileen? A nice woman, by the way) and asked her to send a parts kit so I could finish the project, almost from scratch.  Again, no motivation, so I enlisted a friend, an audio wizard, who has built Bottlehead kits in the past.  He carefully went through the whole kit, reviewed my work, fixed my mistakes, conducted all the power, resistance, and voltage tests.  Everything was spot on.  I put the pre-amp into my audio system and voila!, I was listening to vinyl records again...like never before, heaven on earth.  Beautiful!  Anyway, 3 weeks later (about 15 - 20 hours of play time),  a fairly loud, low frequency hum/rumble was coming from the left output channel.  I checked all my interconnect connections, swapped EF 86 tubes, checked for signal coming from the tonearm, etc. ...nothing helped.  Soon, still perplexed, I started to re-look everything, however, the hum disappeared to be replaced with silence...I lost the left channel completely.  The right channel was still working wonderfully.

I opened up my assembly manual and started to do my checks for power, resistance, and voltage.  Findings: All resistance values where right on.  Power supply test: All voltages where perfect. Voltage check: [terminal IA: 217 vDC]; [terminal IB: 102 vDC!]; [terminal OA: 162 vDC]; [terminal OB: 99.8 vDC!].  All other voltages were in proper range.  These results validated my problems with the left channel not working.   So, I traced the IA and IB wires to the 12AU7A tube, and indeed, the values were the same...low voltage on the IB terminal (D6 tube pin).  I rechecked solder joints, made sure wires weren't touching where they weren't supposed to be etc.  Frustrated, I let it sit for a few days...OK, actually a week.  Things changed when I went back to trouble shooting.  The right channel voltage had now dropped.  The new values are: [terminal IA: 118 vDC]; [terminal IB: unchanged]; [terminal OA: 115.6 vDC]; [terminal OB; unchanged].  I also noticed that the 12AU7A tube seemed to be generating more heat.  I quit the trouble shooting and decided to get some help.  Here I am!

Logic/common sense tells me that the tube 12AU7A is failing or failed,  However, before I go about replacing tubes, I would like some opinions if this is what I should do as a start.

Thank you for enduring this message.

John Nolan



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #1 on: October 26, 2024, 08:47:59 AM
The tests to do are as follows:

Pull the IA/IB wires out of the front C4S board, power up the amp and measure the OA/OB voltages on the C4S board above the 12AU7 socket. 

If these are both around 220V, that tells us something important and where to look at the problem.  If one or both are not correct, then we can dig a little deeper to see what's going on with your kit.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline jaloyn

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Reply #2 on: October 26, 2024, 04:29:54 PM
First of all Paul, thanks for responding.  If I did this correctly, the wires (IA/IB) pulled from the "Shunt Regulator" board (above the 12AU7 tube), voltages for OA and OB are equal at: - .72 vDC.  This is a far cry from 220 vDC you mention.  Where to from here?

John



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #3 on: October 27, 2024, 06:03:20 AM
I would be pretty much 100% positive that you did not do this correctly.

You need to slip the wires out of the IA/IB pads on the front C4S board and leave them poking up in the air, then measure the voltages at OA/OB on the shunt regulator board above the 12AU7.  It is very improbable that both of these voltages would go to zero if you did this.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline jaloyn

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Reply #4 on: October 27, 2024, 12:54:03 PM
Paul - - I figured I messed up.  One question before I proceed: what gauge wire is in the kit...22 ga.?  Also, is there any difference between between "audio" wire and just solid core tinned copper?  Thanks.

JN



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #5 on: October 27, 2024, 03:07:40 PM
20-22AWG will work just fine, and tinned solid core copper is preferred. 

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline jaloyn

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Reply #6 on: October 28, 2024, 03:20:53 PM
Paul - I'm in the process of retrieving my spare parts for the Eros 2.  By the end of this week, I should have everything back from my friend who helped me finish the kit.  Once in hand, I will get back with you to continue trouble shooting.  I appreciate your help...don't go away!

John



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #7 on: October 28, 2024, 06:30:19 PM
I appreciate your help...don't go away!
I've been on the forum for just a hair over 20 years now, and possibly will hang in another 20.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline jaloyn

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Reply #8 on: November 04, 2024, 11:40:07 AM
Paul - - I'm back!  I took shunt regulator board completely off the kit.  I did this so I could get a good look at the jumper wires on the under side and check solder joints.  They are all good and correctly configured.  To do the test you asked, I'm using jumper wires (hook leads) to connect the board to the kit while the board remains physically off the kit.  With the IA and IB wires removed from the C4S board, the voltages on the shunt regulator board are as follows: OA = 200 vDC; OB = 148.6 vDC.  These are not the voltages I should be getting, I know.  Do you think I have a failed component, or a wiring issue?  I now have my "spares kit" I purchased from the Bottlehead Queen Eileen.

John



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #9 on: November 04, 2024, 06:54:53 PM
What are the Kreg voltages on the regulator board?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline jaloyn

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Reply #10 on: November 05, 2024, 08:32:33 AM
OK - - Kreg voltage "A" side: .209 vDC;  Kreg voltage "B" side: 2.71 vDC.

John



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #11 on: November 05, 2024, 11:38:01 AM
I would recommend posting some build photos.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline jaloyn

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Reply #12 on: November 05, 2024, 12:33:38 PM
I will re-connect the shunt regulator board to the kit, and then do my best to send some meaningful photos.  I don't have a smart phone, but I will do my best.  I don't like phones that are smarter than me.

John



Offline jaloyn

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Reply #13 on: November 10, 2024, 12:46:53 PM
OK Paul, I attached some images of my Eros 2.  Hopefully, they will reveal something significant.

John



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #14 on: November 10, 2024, 01:26:08 PM
I immediately see most of the PC board solder joints do not look soldered. 


Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man