Rocker switch (power)

[palmfish]

Well, in spite of the warning in the instructions, my power switch got too hot during soldering and I melted the insides. Now the rocker just flaps around like a dead chicken...lol.

So I went to an electronics store to buy another switch. All they had that was the same size was a lighted rocker switch, which has three prongs. The salesman told me that the third prong is just for the light, and if I just use two prongs, it will be the same. I figured he was right and bought it.

Now that I'm home and trying to use it, it isn't working. Thinking back to my long-since used electrical knowledge, I believe the 3-prong switch is not so simple, requiring parallel wiring and more connections.. Anyways, I'm hoping someone can give me some advice. I guess I should just get a 2-prong switch and be done with it, huh?

[John EH]

Well, in spite of the warning in the instructions, my power switch got too hot during soldering and I melted the insides. Now the rocker just flaps around like a dead chicken...lol.

So I went to an electronics store to buy another switch. All they had that was the same size was a lighted rocker switch, which has three prongs. The salesman told me that the third prong is just for the light, and if I just use two prongs, it will be the same. I figured he was right and bought it.

Now that I'm home and trying to use it, it isn't working. Thinking back to my long-since used electrical knowledge, I believe the 3-prong switch is not so simple, requiring parallel wiring and more connections.. Anyways, I'm hoping someone can give me some advice. I guess I should just get a 2-prong switch and be done with it, huh?

Figure it out with your meter.  Set your meter to Ohms and place two leads on your best two guesses.  Flip the switch and observe whether the switch opens or closes or does nothing.  Not too many combinations.  Easy to figure out.

Yes the switches are way prone to heat.  The one in my last Crack kit I darn near toasted it and I was only on the lead for a second.

What you can do is to buy a heat sink when you solder up the next one.   It was absorb and carry some of the heat away when you solder.

[palmfish]

Thanks for the tips - I'll try it!

[Paul Birkeland]

The best advice would be to request a replacement power switch.  (If your name was in your signature, it would happen automatically BTW)

[Mike B]

I put a little notch in the top of the tab with a dremel cut off wheel, but a small file should work too.  Then the lead goes through the hole and bent up and over the notch and then down.

Just have to solder the top of the tab.  Keeps the heat as far away from the plastic as possible.

[palmfish]

Yes, I could do that, but then it wouldn't be finished today! 

I checked resistance with my multimeter and figured out which prongs to use. It's all good - switch works!

Thanks again John EH

[John EH]

Yes, I could do that, but then it wouldn't be finished today! 

I checked resistance with my multimeter and figured out which prongs to use. It's all good - switch works!

Thanks again John EH

Might as well wire the light up too!  Is it a 120 v light in the switch?

[adamct]

Palmfish, you should have gotten one of these!   

I'm not kidding. I want one and am trying to figure out which amp to build one into... 

[palmfish]

That's awesome!!

Reminds of this... I have one on my computer keyboard.

(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fpixelatedgeek.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2009%2F11%2Fpanic-button_main.jpg&hash=375a19dc0e35e5c39938e44b6e4ed7571edba97e)

[2wo]

" you should have gotten one of these!"

The problem is, every time you hit it a giant Klaxon gos off, then the Halon shoots down from the ceiling, then the fire dept comes...John

[adamct]

And the problem is....?

[2wo]

The fire dept will drink all of your beer