EDIT:
I'll update this post with usefull answers from posters and from other sources I might stumble upon as I go.Hi!
First of all, I've trawled through the forum (plus Head-Fi and others) looking for specific advice and recommendations for replacement output capacitor's for the Crack.
And I've learned quite a bit, but still have some questions that I would like to ask.
I'll divide this into two sections, one for general technical advice and one for specific recommendations of output capacitors and their perceived and or documented benefit.
-please also drop some tips on power supply caps as well if you want!
Also, here's a disclaimer:
Before I only knew two things about electrical circuitry; jack and shit.
These days I've read quite a bit and have supplemented with two more; sod and all.
Expect many question marks.
Don't ever assume I know what I'm talking about, I'm just a neophyte hobbyist who's desperate for an excuse to heat up the soldering iron.
-I have a Speedball order in processing, so I'm asking about caps because I might need a new fix down the line.
Technical:- These are slightly embarrasing, but I have to ask.
The film cap is supposed to replace the electrolylic caps on terminal 6U, 7U, 9U and 10U?
-in other words, remove the lytics and solder on the film caps instead?
Also, bypassing means to connect a smaller capacitor alongside the film capacitor?
Yes, replace them!
Bypassing means fitting a second capacitor, usually at 1% the Farad-rating of the main cap (so 1uF on a 100uF cap, get it?), alongside the main cap. Either soldered on the legs of the main cap or in the same terminals, whatever fits best.
- Also a little embarrasing; what does a capacitor do in an amplifier, in laymans terms?
-filter out noise?
Magic, it does magic, okay? - Subjectively, what would you say are the biggest benefits to swapping the caps?
Reply from Doc:
"Electrolytic caps can break down over time from heat..."
"Modern films caps do pretty much last forever if they are not abused by running them over their voltage rating."
The most common arguments I've read list a slightly better seperation and a more spacious sound.
As I understand though, these are mostly minute benefits?
Do film caps have a longer lifespan than lytics? - What about electrolytic caps?
Generally people seem to prefer film caps.
-because of faster response times and better ripple current rejection or something (magic).
But I've read a couple posts from people who prefer electrolytics instead.
Some stated that to get the same performance from a lytic you needed 10x the Farad rating.
So to replace a 100uF film cap you'd need a 1000uF lytic cap?
-does this mean you could use a 10uF film cap replacement?
Personally I'm drawn heavily towards film caps solely because of their brutal size.
There's something absurd and sexy about using components the size of soda cans just to make earphones sound better, and I like it.
- The stock output caps are rated 100 uF and 160 Volts.
As I understand It's recommended to find film caps with similar specs, the most widely used specs seem to be 100uF 250V.
Spare yourself the headache, just use a film cap with as similar specs to the electrolytic caps as possible
- Is there any benefit from using a cap with a higher Farad rating?
As I understand this could theoretically give a slight boost to the lower frequencies?
- I've not been able to find any film capacitors at 100uF with a lower Voltage rating than 250.
As I understand there's no benefit from using a capacitor with a Voltage rating above the stock 160.
Some have posted that using capacitors with a very high Voltage rating, 400+, can have detrimental effects, if only from the thicker hookup, correct?
Just a couple on power supply capacitors as well:
- As I understand the stock caps here are very good.
I half remember readind a post somewhere where someone used an oscilloscope to measure ...oscillations and said they were ...good and lo and behold so they were.
Read my disclaimer!
EDIT: Found the post: https://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php?topic=1762.msg13272#msg13272
I've also read that the biggest benefit would come from swapping out the 2nd and 3rd cap, but which terminals are those connected to?
20U and 21U? 1
14U and 15U? 2
12U and 13U? 3
The attached image shows the order of the power caps! - Again it is best to find caps with matching ratings, 220uF and 250V?.
- Does one use film caps here as well? That sounds like it would be impossible to fit alongside the Speedball and output film caps and perhaps a choke.
Yes, it is pretty much impossible to fit replacement film caps on the PSU and outputs.
This reddit/Head-Fi user has replaced the last lytic cap with a film cap.
With a choke in place of one of the PSU-resistors (the big rectangular white ones between 15-21U and 13-15L) he was able to put a 100uF film cap in place of the last resistor.
While replacement film caps are tough to fit, bypass caps are much easier.
Find some 2.2uF 250V film caps like perhaps these and solder them in along with the electrolytic power caps instead.
Specific recomendations:I was hoping we could get some specific model names and maybe links to good replacement caps here.
Generally I aspire to be a cheapskate, but sometimes I just say "screw it" and splurge on something I generally regret splurging on.
I don't necesarily see the point in shoveling several houndred dollars into new caps, then I might as well have gotten a SEX or Crackatwoa instead.
And as I understand it, once you cross a certain price point you enter diminishing returns territory, so if we could keep the recommendations below that line I'd appreciate it.
-Where exactly is that line?
Please namedrop any electrolytic replacements you can think of as well.
So far it seems these are the most popular caps:
Addition:More?Model names and links would be great!
-preferably affordable.
Thanks for reading
