Volume potentiometer only affecting one channel [resolved]

Labyrinth52 · 1300

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Offline Labyrinth52

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Hey folks!

First time Bottlehead user. I just finished assembling my Crack 1.1 W/ Speedball and have been really, really enjoying it. However I've ran into a minor issue. After full assembly was the first time I tested out the volume potentiometer. As the title would suggest, it's only changing the volume on the left channel. I've done a quick search and I couldn't find a post on here with a similar issue.

Isn't my first time doing a soldering project, or building an amplifier (O2 previously). Would anyone have any suggestions as to what might be going on or how to resolve this?

I can provide a list of voltages and resistances if need be, but when checking throughout the build they were all within range.
« Last Edit: January 21, 2020, 12:57:54 PM by Paul Birkeland »



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #1 on: January 08, 2020, 02:38:13 PM
This is probably best resolved by posting some build photos.

Back in the Crack 1.0 days, it was super common for people to forget the connection that goes between the pair of pot lugs where the black wires connect, is yours present? 

Is the volume stuck all the way up or all the way down?  If it is always all the way down, that could be too much solder on the center pin of the jack shorting it to the shell of the jack. 

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Labyrinth52

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Reply #2 on: January 08, 2020, 03:59:08 PM
Stuck all the way up, it almost seems to get a little louder as the other channel fades. But might be my imagination. I do have the bridge in place, and all of the connections seem rock solid.



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #3 on: January 09, 2020, 04:37:27 AM
On the upper level of the pot, the middle lug should vary in impedance to ground as you rotate the control.  What range do you see? (you can measure this with the amp off)

What range do you see from the middle lug to the outer lug?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Labyrinth52

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Reply #4 on: January 09, 2020, 01:27:24 PM
What range do you see from the middle lug to the outer lug?

Upper middle to upper right (ground) I get 1.8 ohms to 93.6k ohms.
Upper middle to upper left is the polar opposite.



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #5 on: January 09, 2020, 03:02:56 PM
I would resolder all of the joints where black wires land.  Those readings tell us that the pot is working just fine, so that leaves the most likely problem to be that the pot isn't well connected.

At the 1.8 ohm resistance reading from center lug to the ground lug, the output of the pot will be muted unless the ground lug on the pot isn't well connected.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline diynewbie

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Reply #6 on: January 10, 2020, 01:17:44 AM
I'm confused.  It looks the pot wiring changed in the current instructions (my 1.0 has the red wires on top furthest from chassis).  Should the measurements have been from the lower lugs closest to the chassis where the red wires are attached?



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #7 on: January 10, 2020, 04:29:18 AM
The left channel is the level of the pot with white wiring.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Labyrinth52

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Reply #8 on: January 10, 2020, 10:25:04 AM
Welp. I removed all excess solder, re-soldered all my grounds, and redid my red wire from pot to a7 as it was pretty mangled. Plugged it back in and I lost volume control on both channels. I decided to take a break and just listen to it for 15 minutes (probably a bad idea in hindsight), and part way through listening I lost left channel. Powering on the amp now, LED from center lug to A3 is blank and no longer shines.

Terminal - Resistance
1 - *
2 - *
3 - 0.3
4 - *
5 - *
6 - 0.3
7 - *
8 - 0
9 - *
10 - 0
12 - 0
13 - *
14 - 0
20 - 0
22 - 0
Wasn't able to get resistance on OA/OB
G - 2.3

Terminal - Volt
1 - 71.6
2 - 176.8
3 - 0
4 - 177.1
5 - 172 - Running high
6 - 0
7 - 100.4
8 - 0
9 - 170.9 - Running high
10 - 0
OA - 170.5
OB - 100.5
G - 0
B+ - 176.9

Hopefully these are enough to narrow down suspects to at least get the missing channel back.



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #9 on: January 10, 2020, 11:02:45 AM
Do both halves of the 12AU7 glow? 

Can you carefully measure the DC voltage on pins A3 and A8?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Labyrinth52

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Reply #10 on: January 10, 2020, 11:46:39 AM
Hey Paul, only the back half is glowing currently.

A3 - 0V
A8 - 1.6V



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #11 on: January 10, 2020, 12:59:28 PM
The solder joint at A4/A5 is not sound.  Reheat it/reflow it to restore glow to both sides of the tube, then that LED should come back on.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Labyrinth52

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Reply #12 on: January 10, 2020, 03:16:01 PM
Is there some type of reading I should potentially be getting off these pins?

Under the small board is currently (visually) a mess from me trying to sort this out. But all the connections look solid to my eye and terrible photo.



Offline Labyrinth52

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Reply #13 on: January 10, 2020, 03:28:34 PM
I should add, I've lost the two B-side led's on the small board. I seem to be doing more harm than good at this point.



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #14 on: January 10, 2020, 05:09:18 PM
If the tube doesn't glow on both sides (but does glow on one side), then the solder joint at A4/A5 needs attention.  Unscrew the PC board, slip some of the bare wire through A5, then loop a little more through A4. 

That is what you absolutely must focus on 100%.  The LEDs will not light up unless that issue is resolved.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man