Mineral Oil for top plate.

[ChetJettison]

Hi there! I've recently received my crack kit, and I'm excited to get started. I've already glued up the box, and I plan to lightly sand it and finish with a simple coat of mineral oil.
I see in the instructions that the top plate will rust if not somehow coated. I'm reluctant to clear coat it, as I like the swirly brushed texture it already has. Generally when I want to prevent a metal from rusting, I just wipe it with a bit of mineral oil, then wipe off the excess with a dry paper towel... Very little oil remains on the surface, not even really enough to feel. Just enough to fill the "pores" of the metal. I find that this prevents rusting of most metals. Would this be appropriate for the top plate on the crack? Any reason why it wouldn't work?

[Paul Birkeland]

The top plate will not rust.

The cover of the power transformer will rust if it's not painted or clear coated.  If you want to oil the power transformer cover frequently, that may be enough to keep the rust away, but I would recommend something more permanent.

[Doc B.]

What PB says. The worst thing that happens to the brushed aluminum chassis plate is minor - fingerprints. A little WD40 on a rag will usually take them right off. The transformer bell end should get a good cleaning with a potent degreaser as the oil that is put on it to protect it in shipping is pretty thick and gooey. I use acetone (use latex gloves for that), but lacquer thinner, naptha, Formula 409, Fantastik, or whatever your favorite degreaser might be should also work if you are thorough. A poly clear coat or paint is the best thing to keep the bell end from rusting. You can just wax it, but it doesn't protect the metal for very long.

[ChetJettison]

Ah ha! I see! I misread the instructions, thinking it was referring exclusively to the top plate. Thanks for clarifying that. I will properly coat the transformer end bell.

[jtori]

On the last two I built, I simply wiped down the chassis plates with acetone and hit them with two mist coats of clear out of a spray bomb.  The original brushed finish was preserved nicely.  With regard to the transformer bells, I hit them with 000 steel wool, wiped them with acetone and squirted them with flat black out of a spray can.

[ChetJettison]

I think I'll do just what you describe, with the acetone and everything. Clear for the top plate, and probably also clear for the transformer bell as I prefer the natural metal color to black. Plus I'll only have to by one can! CHEAP!

[Natural Sound]

Years ago I worked in a shop that had a metal fabrication department. They washed metal parts with Dawn dish washing detergent and water using green Scotch-Brite pads. The original blue formula of Dawn works best. Dawn has wonderful de-greasing agents and surfactant to wash the grime away. Once rinsed and dried the metal is ready for paint. That's the method I still use today. I don't expose myself to hazardous chemicals that way and it's a little easier on the environment. That's my 2 cents. As they say, "Your Mileage May Vary."

One other tip mentioned before here on the forum worth reminding. Certain paints take a long time to harden. Especially textured paint like hammer-tone. Paints like that require a couple of weeks to completely dry. The paint may feel dry to the touch after a short time but it's still soft inside.  If you try to assemble your kit without waiting for the paint to fully cure you might find that areas of paint will peel off. This is especially noticeable around screw holes when you tighten hardware.