Crack + Speedball 1.1 Voltage issue

mystfire · 1562

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Offline mystfire

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on: September 14, 2020, 04:37:27 PM
Hi,

I had my Crack working as stock but once I added the speedball 1.1 upgrade it doesn't output anything now.
I'm from Australia with 240VAC from the wall.
All lights turn on except for two of them on the large sb board.
I've tried reflowing all the solder joints but I can't find the problem...
Could somebody help with this please?

Crack Voltages
1 74
2 98
3 0
4 98
5 64
6 0
7 78
8 0
9 63
10 0

Small SB Voltages
OA 74
1A 98
B/A/B 0
1B 98
OB 64

Large SB Voltages
OA 62
OB 78
G 0
B+ 96

Thank you



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #1 on: September 14, 2020, 04:38:06 PM
What's the DC resistance between the metal tab on each TIP50 and terminal 3 in the amp?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline mystfire

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Reply #2 on: September 14, 2020, 04:43:53 PM
What's the DC resistance between the metal tab on each TIP50 and terminal 3 in the amp?

Connecting black to terminal 3 and red to each metal tab, I don't get a reading (doesn't change on multimeter)



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #3 on: September 14, 2020, 05:25:00 PM
Can you pull the 6080 tube and recheck the voltages and let me know what they are?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline mystfire

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Reply #4 on: September 14, 2020, 05:38:59 PM
Can you pull the 6080 tube and recheck the voltages and let me know what they are?

Crack Voltages
1 74
2 225
3 0
4 226
5 74
6 0
7 2
8 0
9 1
10 0

Small SB Voltages
OA 73
1A 226
B/A/B 0
1B 226
OB 74

Large SB Voltages
OA 1
OB 2
G 0
B+ 226

Thanks



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #5 on: September 14, 2020, 05:47:14 PM
So an issue like this most often happens when the TIP50 transistors are not properly mounted to the heatsinks.  It's important to use all of the hardware provided and especially to pay careful attention to the orientation of the shoulder washers.  If these components are not properly placed, then the 6080 will draw as much current as it can until it burns up the power supply, and that's what drags down the B+ voltage.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline mystfire

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Reply #6 on: September 14, 2020, 05:57:54 PM
I double checked this and I'm sure I followed the instructions exactly and mounted it in the correct orientation.
Is there anything else possibly?



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #7 on: September 14, 2020, 06:21:47 PM
Can you post some build photos?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline mystfire

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Reply #8 on: September 14, 2020, 06:23:39 PM



Offline mystfire

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Reply #9 on: September 14, 2020, 06:33:28 PM
What can I use as a replacement HLMP-6000 LED? there's no shipping option for it on bottlehead store



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #10 on: September 14, 2020, 07:42:10 PM
What can I use as a replacement HLMP-6000 LED? there's no shipping option for it on bottlehead store

Why do you need HLMP-6000 LEDs?  The LEDs not lighting does not indicate there is an issue with the LEDs.  I could list a half a dozen different scenarios that would cause the issue you're having that do not involve bad LEDs.

Can I see some photos around the octal socket?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #11 on: September 14, 2020, 07:44:53 PM
And just more photos overall.  I notice that you have no #8 nuts securing your power transformer, and there may be other things in the build causing problems.

Another test you can do is to heat up and remove all the wires connecting that board to the circuit, then flip the board around.  If the side of the board causing problems continues to cause problems, then we can zero in on that half of the board.  If that half of the board works hooked up to the other half of the circuit, then there's a problem with the build under the Speedball.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man