Crack "Clicking" noise from headphones

DirectAssault · 1259

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Offline DirectAssault

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on: October 12, 2020, 12:15:43 PM
Hey Guys,

I've had my Crack for years now. Probably one of my first soldering projects I've done. Then a few years back and put the speedball upgrade on it.

Recently I've noticed that I can hear a what I can describe as a ticking, popping, and crackling noise from my headphones when I turn my volume up. It's not really noticeable when something is playing, however it's hard when songs are transitioning or when nothing is playing on them. I'm assuming its some sort of power supply related issue, or something wrong with a resistor or capacitor.

Unfortunately a break in a few weeks ago have left me without my voltmeter and soldering station, which I'm currently in the process of replacing. So I'm not able to do the readings right this minute on anything. Can someone with more knowledge than myself tell me if I'm on the right track, what I can check when I do get the replacement stolen items, and how SOL I might be?

Looking at the documents, my speedball was purchased in 2017, and the crack from 2013. Or at least that's the revision for my documents. I have everything labelled on my sheet metal accordingly if someone can just tell me the #/page to look for.



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #1 on: October 12, 2020, 01:03:45 PM
I'm assuming its some sort of power supply related issue, or something wrong with a resistor or capacitor.
No.
Unfortunately a break in a few weeks ago have left me without my voltmeter and soldering station, which I'm currently in the process of replacing. So I'm not able to do the readings right this minute on anything. Can someone with more knowledge than myself tell me if I'm on the right track, what I can check when I do get the replacement stolen items, and how SOL I might be?
Sorry about the break-in.  When you get a replacement DVM, there are voltages listed on page 28 of the manual.

Do you get this noise with nothing plugged into your Crack?  What source are you using?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline DirectAssault

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Reply #2 on: October 12, 2020, 01:24:57 PM
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Do you get this noise with nothing plugged into your Crack?  What source are you using?

I'm not sure what this is asking -- the noise is only audible when I have my headphones plugged in at a moderate volume, assuming that answers the question. the source comes from an external DAC, which is hooked up to my computer.

Did you mean pages 38 and not 28?



Offline oguinn

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Reply #3 on: October 12, 2020, 01:55:47 PM
He’s asking you what happens if you don’t have the DAC plugged in but you do have the headphones plugged in.

Jameson O'Guinn

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Main System: Schiit Bifrost MB, Rega Planar 6 with Exact cartridge, Eros 2, BeePre, Kaiju/Stereomour II, Jagers, Mainline

Desktop System: Crack with Speedball


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #4 on: October 12, 2020, 01:56:56 PM
Also, is your DAC USB powered?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline DirectAssault

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Reply #5 on: October 12, 2020, 02:04:50 PM
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Also, is your DAC USB powered?

No. it's an older Schitt Modi. Optical Input, uses a wall wart for power.

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He’s asking you what happens if you don’t have the DAC plugged in but you do have the headphones plugged in.

No change, same thing



Deke609

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Reply #6 on: October 12, 2020, 02:33:23 PM
... a ticking, popping, and crackling noise from my headphones when I turn my volume up.

I wonder if it might be oxidation or some other build-up in volume pot? I think that usually manifests as crackling when turning the pot, not with the pot fixed at a certain level. But it might be worth turning the pot up and down all the way about a 100 times when the amp is off just to see if it helps.

If it were my amp, the next thing I'd try would be reheating all the joints.  Years of expansion/contraction from heating up -and cooling down might have loosened a not-so perfect solder joint somewhere.

cheers, Derek



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #7 on: October 12, 2020, 04:33:20 PM
Just to continue clarifying, you mentioned that there's noise when you turn the amp up, is that noise when adjusting the volume control?  Noise when you turn the volume all the way up? 

You could also try this mod:
https://forum.bottlehead.com/index.php?topic=11676.0

If a new component is polluting your powerlines a bit, that will help.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline DirectAssault

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Reply #8 on: October 12, 2020, 05:02:10 PM
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Just to continue clarifying, you mentioned that there's noise when you turn the amp up, is that noise when adjusting the volume control?  Noise when you turn the volume all the way up?

The noise is present at all volume levels, but isn't really noticeable when the volume is low and is very prevalent at a "normal" audio level.

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You could also try this mod:
https://forum.bottlehead.com/index.php?topic=11676.0

None of the components are new, things have remained the same for at least the last 3 years. but there wouldn't be harm to ty to cleanup some of the noise polution my system might be introducing to the line once I address the more pressing concern of the clicking

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If it were my amp, the next thing I'd try would be reheating all the joints.  Years of expansion/contraction from heating up -and cooling down might have loosened a not-so perfect solder joint somewhere.

I'm hoping that when I get some of my stuff recovered I'm able to do this. Wouldn't incorrect voltages or resistances be a byproduct of this though? I wouldn't have an issue redoing some of the joints if the voltmeter would display an incorrect value -- assuming it would show up at this point?

Quote
I wonder if it might be oxidation or some other build-up in volume pot? I think that usually manifests as crackling when turning the pot, not with the pot fixed at a certain level. But it might be worth turning the pot up and down all the way about a 100 times when the amp is off just to see if it helps.

i can try, there's no harm in playing around with knobs  ;D



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #9 on: October 12, 2020, 05:13:32 PM
You could have many bad solder joints and perfect DC voltages.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline DirectAssault

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Reply #10 on: October 12, 2020, 05:20:49 PM
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You could have many bad solder joints and perfect DC voltages.

Interesting. I'm supposed to have some replacement stuff by the end of the week. Should I just go ahead and reheat all the joints anyway? Regardless of correct voltages?

Now that I listened to it at a much louder audio level, It's actually just clicking from my left ear piece. My tinnitus in my right ear just threw me off.



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #11 on: October 12, 2020, 05:25:16 PM
What are you replacing and why?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline DirectAssault

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Reply #12 on: October 12, 2020, 07:24:04 PM
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What are you replacing and why?

my answer:

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Unfortunately a break in a few weeks ago have left me without my voltmeter and soldering station...

Sorry for not being clear.

Do you agree with me reheating all the joints again? or what do you propose?



Deke609

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Reply #13 on: October 13, 2020, 04:21:06 AM
Two other things you might try:

(1) Clean the tube pins. And then insert, remove, reinsert the tubes a few times to scrape off any grunge/oxidation in the pin sockets.

(2) Try different tubes -- if you are using the original tubes that came with the kit in 2013, it's conceivable that one side of a tube is going a bit wonky with age.  Worst case scenario: that's not the issue, and you end up with a second set of tubes and can tube roll.

cheers, Derek



Offline Deluk

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Reply #14 on: October 13, 2020, 04:37:08 AM
Delete the DAC and feed the Crack directly from the PC headphone jack and see if that changes, or solves the problem.