New Crack Build Voltage Problem [resolved]

jminassi · 3984

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Offline jminassi

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on: December 14, 2020, 03:20:34 PM
Hi Folks,

I solved my resistance check problem, but now I have a voltage issue.  I’m following the directions on page 49 of the Crack manual.  I plugged the amp into my dim bulb tester and the dim bulb tester into my variac.  As I bring the voltage up above 35 volts the dim bulb tester starts to get brighter and brighter.  It appears I have a short somewhere.  I checked all the connections.  Nothing obvious is touching anything it shouldn’t.

Any thoughts?

John
« Last Edit: January 31, 2021, 05:34:58 AM by Paul Birkeland »



Offline Thermioniclife

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Reply #1 on: December 14, 2020, 03:49:02 PM
I must admit that I have not followed this post closely but you stated that you passed the resistance test after re soldering.
If I may ask what wattage lamp are you using? I usually use a 200w lamp as I can't seem to find higher incandescent lamps anymore.

Lee R.


Offline jminassi

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Reply #2 on: December 14, 2020, 04:03:10 PM
Ahhh, good point!  I used a 60 watt bulb because the last thing I tested drew only 30 watts.  What is the Crack’s wattage at idle?  I need to size the wattage of the bulb in my tester appropriately.

I do appreciate your help,

J



Deke609

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Reply #3 on: December 14, 2020, 04:12:47 PM
Well, you've now passed the 5 post mark, so you should be able to post pics.

Failing that, I'd carefully scrutinize the power supply, looking for miswires, or unclipped leads that may be shorting B+ to ground/chassis.  A power supply diode installed backwards would cause a high current short.

cheers, Derek



Offline Thermioniclife

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Reply #4 on: December 14, 2020, 04:21:16 PM
I would guess it's aprox 60 watts after warm up and higher at a cold start up. If your resistance tests are good I would not use a dim bulb and only use a variac and look and listen for trouble as you are probably fine. A 60w bulb will glow brightly at 500 ma and you will not get accurate voltage readings.

Lee R.


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #5 on: December 14, 2020, 04:43:44 PM
Can you plug the amp into the wall and turn it on?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline jminassi

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Reply #6 on: December 14, 2020, 04:58:41 PM
Ok, thanks to all of you.  I will go through the circuit one more time and check the power supply diodes, unclipped leads etc.  I can plug it directly into the wall of course.  I’m just afraid of blowing something up.

John



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #7 on: December 15, 2020, 08:32:46 AM
That's what the fuse is for. 

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline jminassi

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Reply #8 on: December 15, 2020, 12:01:35 PM
Thank you Paul.  I’ll give it a once over look, plug it into the wall and hope for the best.  I’ll let you know.

John



Offline jminassi

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Reply #9 on: December 15, 2020, 04:13:23 PM
Hi Folks,

I had a transformer diode installed incorrectly (polarity).  I corrected it.  I put the tubes in place and plugged the Crack into the wall.  The tubes are not glowing and neither LED on the 9 pin socket is lit.
I turned off all the lights to make sure.  I unplugged the Crack and removed the fuse.  It looked good and I tested it for continuity.  The fuse is good.

Any suggestions for where to start looking?  The Crack passed the glow test on page 31 of the manual when I was at that part of the build.

Any help would be appreciated.

John




Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #10 on: December 15, 2020, 04:19:36 PM
The Crack is no longer passing the glow test.  Nothing else matters until you can get the tubes glowing. 

The tube heaters (that glow) are fed with the green twisted pair of wires.  Since both tubes don't glow, either the green wires going from the power transformer to the B socket aren't well connected, or the power transformer isn't well connected to 120V wall power. 

You could recheck the power transformer voltage check on page 29 and let us know what you get.  I would also post some build photos while you're at it.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline jminassi

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Reply #11 on: December 15, 2020, 04:39:25 PM
Hi Paul,

The voltage between terminals 7 and 9 reads 6.39 V AC.  The voltage between terminals 11 and 12 reads
173.7 V AC.

So I suppose I’m left with the green twisted pair to check.

I don’t see an “attach” icon that would allow me to attach photos.  How do I do this?

Thank you for all your help,

John



Deke609

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Reply #12 on: December 15, 2020, 06:46:51 PM
I don’t see an “attach” icon that would allow me to attach photos.  How do I do this?

Click "Attachments and other options" -- see attached screenshot.

cheers, Derek



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #13 on: December 16, 2020, 06:57:24 AM
The green twisted pair of wires leaving the power transformer and going to the octal socket is 100000% the first problem to address.  At least one wire in that twisted pair is not properly connected.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline jminassi

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Reply #14 on: December 16, 2020, 11:44:31 AM
PB,

Transformer lug 7 and 9 have continuity with A4, A5 and A9.  Those transformer lugs also have continuity with B7 and B8.  Lugs 7 and 8 are effectively connected to each other.  Can you confirm this wiring is correct?

The system won't let me attach photos for my ipad even though they are .jpg files.  Is there a way to fix this?  Then the system would not let me reply via iPad.  So I am using my laptop.

John