Eros 2 final voltage check — high values (FIXED)

Lowercase · 3580

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Offline Lowercase

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on: February 23, 2021, 10:23:39 AM
Just completed my Eros. Passed resistance checks without issue. But my readings starting with OA/OB to OkC/OkD are quiet high:

IA 210-230V 216V
IB 210-230V 217V
OA 155-185V 214V
OB 155-185V 214V
OC 95-100V 193V
OD 95-100V 192V
OkA 95-105V 204V
OkB 95-105V 204V
OkC 0.7-2V 6.7V
OkD 0.7-2V 6.5V

Can upload photos of the board shortly.

Thanks as always!
« Last Edit: February 27, 2021, 03:35:53 PM by Lowercase »



Offline Lowercase

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Reply #1 on: February 23, 2021, 11:16:47 AM
Stupid mistake found. I swapped a pair of resistors from the power supply to the C4S board. They were swapped back in to the right place. They were the 270k bleed on the power supply and 27k on the C4S. Orange and yellow are the same color right?  ;D

New voltages below which are still high, starting at OC/OD now, but a step in the right direction. So I guess it’s a game of what did I fry now? All LEDS are lit too and no burnt or funky looking parts.

IA 210-230V 217V
IB 210-230V 217V
OA 155-185V 145V
OB 155-185V 145V
OC 95-100V 141V
OD 95-100V 140V
OkA 95-105V 140V
OkB 95-105V 140V
OkC 0.7-2V 4V
OkD 0.7-2V 4V
« Last Edit: February 23, 2021, 11:47:19 AM by Lowercase »



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #2 on: February 23, 2021, 12:12:57 PM
I just did the same thing today putting 330K resistors in place of 22K resistors, it's not all that easy to find.

Can you check your R1 values on the PC board up front?  The servo circuit is nearly turning off the EF86 and still the OkA/B and OC/OD voltages are pretty close together.  I would check for continuity between each pair of legs on the 2N2222 transistors as well.  How do the caps that hang off the edges of that board look?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Lowercase

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Reply #3 on: February 23, 2021, 12:56:49 PM
R1A/B are both reading 113

Caps look just fine. No bulging or anything amiss.
 
Q3D/C is 174 base to emitter, no beeping, and readings that start at 400 and rise  when on collector, no beeping on either side. Don’t know if I measured the right way, but hopefully pinpoint in right direction.
« Last Edit: February 23, 2021, 12:58:59 PM by Lowercase »



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #4 on: February 23, 2021, 12:58:53 PM
You want to check for shorts between base and collector, base and emitter, and emitter and collector.  I've also found that if you take the board off up front, it's pretty common to swap a few wires on accident when putting it back, so definitely double check that as well.

If all else fails, build photos are often helpful as well.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Lowercase

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Reply #5 on: February 23, 2021, 01:05:09 PM
I was able to replace the resistors on the power supply without having to remove it thankfully. So nothing was removed around up front.

Just tested and no beeping on any three combinations. So is it safe to assume they are shorted and in need of replacing?



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #6 on: February 23, 2021, 01:11:07 PM
Beeping means they are shorted, no beeping means they are OK.

I would post some build photos, especially of the 6922 socket.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Lowercase

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Reply #7 on: February 23, 2021, 01:24:27 PM
Of course. So good there. Images below in gallery.

https://imgur.com/a/PANgrsL

Sorry, I’m never able to upload to the site directly.

Of note. Just flipped the top over and the 12au7 has a darker than what appears normal spot at the top near the getter.
« Last Edit: February 23, 2021, 01:37:22 PM by Lowercase »



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #8 on: February 23, 2021, 01:40:06 PM
One 27K resistor looks pretty mangled, does it still measure well?

Are 9 and 10 connected together?  How about 14 and 15?  That shouldn't cause the problem you have, but it's something I noticed.

Maybe also post some photos of the EF86 sockets and the bottom of that front C4S board.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Lowercase

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Reply #9 on: February 23, 2021, 01:53:56 PM
Yeah.chipped when removing. I get 26.6/26.7, kinda takes awhile though to get there and settle.

Both 9/10 and 14/15 are connected. Adding photos to gallery now.



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #10 on: February 23, 2021, 02:20:18 PM
The time to settle is from cap charging.

Hopefully PJ can look over those voltages and come up with a plausible reason that they are so whacky.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Lowercase

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Reply #11 on: February 23, 2021, 02:39:01 PM
One thing I noticed while building that differed  from the manual were the resistors I got for the R2 spots on the shunt regulator. They measured 100KΩ so figured it was just a different brand.

Thanks for the help. Super excited to get this up and running!



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #12 on: February 23, 2021, 03:18:01 PM
Yes, those higher power 100K resistors tend to go in and out of stock fairly regularly.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Paul Joppa

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Reply #13 on: February 23, 2021, 05:34:46 PM
The bias servo is not working. You checked the 2N2222 transistors. indicating they are OK, so there's something else not right in that area. The output of the servo transistor is 4v which is too high, meaning the input to the 2N2222 is too low. Can you measure DC voltage at each end of the 27K resistors? This will tell us whether the input to the servo transistor is all right, and if it isn't then we have a better idea where to look for a broken wire or bad solder joint

Paul Joppa


Offline Lowercase

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Reply #14 on: February 23, 2021, 06:52:35 PM
Measurements below with front facing the text at the top of the board:

RKA
Front 139.7
Back .90

RKB
Front 139.7
Back .90