Eros 2 questions [resolved]

[tmills]

Good afternoon

I am considering purchasing an EROS 2 but want to ask a few questions first. I am looking to add a little tube warmth. I am not sure if the EROS 2 will work in my system. My system consists of a modified Rega Planer 3, Nagoaka MP200 cartridge, and a Rega phono 3 for source. The preamp is a Pass diy BA3 running a Pass diy 50 watt class A power amp. Speakers are Totem Staafs. I find the Rega phono 3 a little bright on some albums. I listen to mostly rock music. I do not know the output impedance of my preamp but the Eros gain will be fine as the Rega has 42db and that works great for me.
I also want to ask about upgrades. I am willing to spend the money on mods but I don't want to waste it on just upgrading everything. What parts are worth upgrading in the kit. I have two 1uf Stealth caps already to use on the outputs but wonder what other parts will make a difference.

Thank you

[Paul Birkeland]

The B3's input impedance looks to be 47K, which is OK for an Eros.  The Nagoaka MP-200 is specified as having 4mV of output, so I think you've got the goods to drop an Eros into your system without any fuss. 

The 47K/2W resistors and the 75K 1/2W resistors are worth upgrading.  Be aware that any resistor that lives in an "R2" position on the boards is outside the signal path and not at all audible.  The 75K resistor is part of the RIAA EQ, so be sure to get a 1% part or buy a batch and hand match them.  The 47K 2W resistors are not so critical in terms of tolerance.

[tmills]

Thank you Paul for the info. I can now make my decision.

Todd

[tmills]

I just ordered my Eros 2 today. Looking forward to getting and building it.

[Doc B.]

Thanks for your order!

[tmills]

Just received my kit today in great shape and quicker than expected. I am looking forward to soldering this weekend!

[tmills]

Hey guys
I have my kit completed but am having an issue. The 2 led's on the B side of the regulator board do not light up. They lit up when I did my first check on that board. Now that I have everything wired they don"t. All other led's light up. My tubes light up. My resistance and voltage checks were all good. I checked the wiring and it "appears" correct. Would using the upper solder tab instead of the lower one cause an issue. I wouldn't think that it would matter as they are the same tab. I used Mundorf Supreme silver/oil output caps and the leads wouldn't fit in the lower so I used the upper. I also had to go back and solder a 1072F(left channel) on the upper as I forgot it the first time around.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[Paul Birkeland]

Can you post your voltages?  Just about all the time when there are LED lighting issues, there are voltage issues that follow.

Specifically I would want to know all the terminal voltages on the small board up front, as well as IA, IB, OA, OB, KregA, and KregB on the regulator board mounted back on the D socket.

[tmills]

Thanks Paul

Here are the readings:

IA=293.5V, IB=293.5V, OA=162.8V, OB=162.3V, OC= 99.6V, OD= 99.2V, OKA= 100.2V, OKB=99.4V, OKC=1.8V, OKD=1.8V, KREGA=126.3V and KREGB=124.7
All lights on the regulator board do not light up now.

Thanks

[Paul Birkeland]

What are the voltages on the regulator board above the 12AU7 socket?

Seeing 293V at IA/IB on the front C4S board tells me the regulator board back above the 12AU7 isn't working properly.  Was it working during your initial testing?

[tmills]

The regulator board tested fine when I built it. Voltages between 210 and 230 on the actual regulator tops and all LED's lit up. The voltages now are all between 292 and 294 on all points on the regulator board except KregA is 126.3 and KregB is 124.7. The tops of the regulators now measure 293.5 on A and 292.1 on B.
1A= 294V
OA= 291.6
1B= 293.5
OB= 292.0
bA= 0
bB=0

Todd

[Paul Birkeland]

If the Kreg voltages on the regulator board measure that high, you probably have a loose or broken wire on that board or connecting it down to the sockets/terminal strips.  I would focus on fixing that before really worrying about anything else. 

I would guess that the tubes are still glowing properly?  The 12AU7 is a pretty easy one to check, and the proper voltages on the forward C4S board would suggest that the front tubes are being properly heated as well.

[tmills]

Thanks Paul

I pulled out the regulator board and found a loose wire. Newbie mistake. All Led's light up on all boards and my voltages off of the regulator are 218V.  Did resistance check again and redid the voltage checks.Everything okay.
Hooked it up........ and have a large ground hum. Rega's don't have a ground wire. What's going on? Am I missing something?

Todd

[Paul Birkeland]

Is the hum there with no TT installed?  Did you paint both sides of the chassis plate? 

[tmills]

It is only there with the TT installed. I did not paint both sides of the chassis plate.