Please help: weak output from new Crack build [resolved]

beatcomber · 3567

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline beatcomber

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 37
Reply #15 on: August 10, 2021, 11:07:11 AM
You could use a different resistor value there without ill consequences.


Great! I'll go buy the ones with the close value locally then, thank you!



Offline beatcomber

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 37
Reply #16 on: August 11, 2021, 08:40:49 AM
I think I'm all set to proceed. I just bought some 2.7k ohm 1/4-watt resistors, which I assume are suitable replacements.

Wish me luck!



Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19319
Reply #17 on: August 11, 2021, 08:41:03 AM
Yeah that's totally OK. 

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline beatcomber

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 37
Reply #18 on: August 11, 2021, 12:26:00 PM
Wonderful, I appreciate the response!



Offline beatcomber

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 37
Reply #19 on: August 13, 2021, 06:08:52 AM
Well, I've made one baby step forward, but it's still not there.

I just wired up the new headphone jack and resistors, and am getting great sound from the right channel only. The resistance reading from the right channel is within spec as well.

The left channel, however, is still dead. :(

Did I just fry another headphone jack? I'd wisely ordered an extra jack, so I can take another shot at it, but before I do, I'm hoping I can get some basic guidance on  the proper soldering technique for connecting this part.

My soldering station is set to its max, 480 degrees F. I'm not sure if there is enough room for me to attach a hemostat (as a heat sink) on the terminal.
« Last Edit: August 13, 2021, 06:13:45 AM by beatcomber »



Offline beatcomber

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 37
Reply #20 on: August 13, 2021, 06:12:31 AM
I just re-watched the video on how to safely solder the power switch, so I suppose that is the same guidance I should use.




Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19319
Reply #21 on: August 13, 2021, 06:37:57 AM
480F isn't hot enough (480C would be).  While it might melt the solder, it will take so long that you'll also melt the jack in the process.

I would get an iron that can get to at least 800F before trying again.

What iron are you using?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline beatcomber

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 37
Reply #22 on: August 13, 2021, 06:47:39 AM
480F isn't hot enough (480C would be).  While it might melt the solder, it will take so long that you'll also melt the jack in the process.

I would get an iron that can get to at least 800F before trying again.

What iron are you using?

A ha, that makes sense!

This is what I'm using:
https://holife.com/products/holife-soldering-iron-station-60w-soldering-station-200-480-ae-adjustable-temperature-soldering-iron-set-with-separate-switch-solder-iron-holder-5-extra-iron-tips-brass-wire-ball-cleaning-sponge

I guess it's time to invest in a better (hotter) iron before proceeding.

THANK YOU.



Offline beatcomber

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 37

Offline maryc27182

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 87
Reply #24 on: August 13, 2021, 05:54:27 PM

This is what I'm using:
https://holife.com/products/holife-soldering-iron-station-60w-soldering-station-200-480-ae-adjustable-temperature-soldering-iron-set-with-separate-switch-solder-iron-holder-5-extra-iron-tips-brass-wire-ball-cleaning-sponge


That iron reports temperature in degrees C. If you had it set at 480 C, that's quite warm. The soldering station that you'll get on Sunday has the same temperature range as your current soldering station, so you could continue working now, as long as you convert the temperature from C to F so you know what you are doing. (It looks like your new station will convert the temperature to F for you.)

Mary

DIY 2-ways (TAD TD-2002, AE TD15M), Stereomour 45
Fostex TH-500RP, S.E.X. 2.1
Eros Phono


Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19319
Reply #25 on: August 14, 2021, 06:17:16 AM
If that is the case, 480C is plenty hot.

If you plug in your headphones and you still see a zero ohm reading at terminal 6 or 10, then you need to turn up the heat all the way on the station (if it isn't up already) and spend a bit less time soldering it on.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Thermioniclife

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
    • Posts: 752
Reply #26 on: August 14, 2021, 08:10:30 AM
I solder at 650F 99% of the time. Set your station to 340C and you should be good to go.
But as always YMMV.

Lee R.


Offline beatcomber

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 37
Reply #27 on: August 14, 2021, 11:50:37 AM
By golly, you’re right! 480c = 896f.

I guess what it comes down to is I have to work on my technique. I’ll do some practicing on the fried jack before attempting it again on my last good jack.



Offline beatcomber

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 37
Reply #28 on: August 14, 2021, 11:55:23 AM
I solder at 650F 99% of the time. Set your station to 340C and you should be good to go.
But as always YMMV.
If that is the case, 480C is plenty hot.

If you plug in your headphones and you still see a zero ohm reading at terminal 6 or 10, then you need to turn up the heat all the way on the station (if it isn't up already) and spend a bit less time soldering it on.

Am I better off going full blast (896f) or should I dial it back to 650f?



Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19319
Reply #29 on: August 14, 2021, 12:06:30 PM
I would recommend full blast and not a ton of solder. Just enough to fill in between the wires and headphone jack.  Use just enough heat for the solder to flow out between the parts. 

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man