Please help: weak output from new Crack build [resolved]

beatcomber · 3560

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Offline beatcomber

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Reply #30 on: August 14, 2021, 01:24:00 PM
I would recommend full blast and not a ton of solder. Just enough to fill in between the wires and headphone jack.  Use just enough heat for the solder to flow out between the parts.

Terrific, that’s the kind of direction I was hoping for!



Offline beatcomber

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Reply #31 on: August 15, 2021, 04:07:20 AM
I just fried a THIRD headphone jack.

I am at my wit's end now. To get all the way through the entire build to be thwarted at the very last stage is frustrating to say the least. Clearly my soldering technique is not good enough to work on these delicate headphone jacks.

What are my options here? Do I have to keep throwing money at Mouser in the hope that one of my installation attempts will work, or do I have to pay Bottlehead $125 to solder this one part for me? :(



Offline bernieclub

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Reply #32 on: August 15, 2021, 04:24:56 AM
A mistake that I made several times while soldering jacks and other easy to destroy parts is applying too much pressure with the iron.   I puddle a little solder on the joint right away to facilitate heat transfer, and then a little more to flow, but don't lean on the joint.   Barely touching.

Bernie Zitomer


Offline oguinn

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Reply #33 on: August 15, 2021, 04:36:22 AM
Post some pictures. Maybe you’re assuming it’s the headphone jack and it’s actually a problem elsewhere in the build

Jameson O'Guinn

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Main System: Schiit Bifrost MB, Rega Planar 6 with Exact cartridge, Eros 2, BeePre, Kaiju/Stereomour II, Jagers, Mainline

Desktop System: Crack with Speedball


Offline beatcomber

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Reply #34 on: August 15, 2021, 05:04:32 AM
A mistake that I made several times while soldering jacks and other easy to destroy parts is applying too much pressure with the iron.   I puddle a little solder on the joint right away to facilitate heat transfer, and then a little more to flow, but don't lean on the joint.   Barely touching.

I don't think that was the problem, I tread very gingerly on the last attempt, but who knows?

Post some pictures. Maybe you’re assuming it’s the headphone jack and it’s actually a problem elsewhere in the build

Good idea, will do shortly.

Thank you.



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #35 on: August 15, 2021, 05:36:15 AM
Have you measure the resistance at terminals 10 and 6 with headphones plugged in every time you've wired in a jack?

You could have two problems, so if you just kept soldering in jacks and trying to use the amp without doing the resistance checks, then you may be chasing your tail a bit.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline beatcomber

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Reply #36 on: August 15, 2021, 07:18:54 AM
Have you measure the resistance at terminals 10 and 6 with headphones plugged in every time you've wired in a jack?

You could have two problems, so if you just kept soldering in jacks and trying to use the amp without doing the resistance checks, then you may be chasing your tail a bit.

Resistance at 10 & 6 is .606k ohms.

Resistance at 12 & 6 is .272 ohms.

Resistance at 12 & 10 is .303 ohms.




Offline beatcomber

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Reply #37 on: August 15, 2021, 07:22:58 AM
Here's a view of my latest attempt to solder the jack. (Yes, I know there's a blob on the upper left terminal. My soldering technique is clearly lacking.)

https://i.postimg.cc/BnQxtHZb/IMG-7483.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/4yGQ40FH/IMG-7484.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/2ydT4YBx/IMG-7485.jpg
« Last Edit: August 15, 2021, 07:26:49 AM by beatcomber »



Online Thermioniclife

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Reply #38 on: August 15, 2021, 07:46:42 AM
Hey, what kind of solder are you using? 60/40 or 63/37 rosin core is what you want.
You need to bend the leads around the terminal. I see at least two terminals that are not securely soldered and will not carry the signal to the headphone jack. The jack does not look fried, I would de solder and redo the connections bending the wire and resistors to make a good physical connection and a place for solder to flow into.

Lee R.


Offline beatcomber

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Reply #39 on: August 15, 2021, 08:38:10 AM
Hey, what kind of solder are you using? 60/40 or 63/37 rosin core is what you want.
You need to bend the leads around the terminal. I see at least two terminals that are not securely soldered and will not carry the signal to the headphone jack. The jack does not look fried, I would de solder and redo the connections bending the wire and resistors to make a good physical connection and a place for solder to flow into.

I'm using 60/40 solder.

I just tried reflowing the solder and securing the connections, to no avail. FWIW, I don't see any plastic melted on the jack, so I wonder if that is indeed the problem?

I appreciate all of the helpful responses, but I really feel like I'm spinning my wheels here. I don't know what more I can do. I need to walk away from this project for a little while because I'm getting too frustrated.

I built a Fender Champ kit last year, and it went off without a hitch. I thought this was going to be comparatively easy.
« Last Edit: August 15, 2021, 08:40:50 AM by beatcomber »



Offline oguinn

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Reply #40 on: August 15, 2021, 09:05:41 AM
He’s saying more than to reflow. Most of those connections are not properly crimped and making good connections before you even need to worry about solder. There isn’t enough solder. Don’t go nuts using too much solder, but that middle lug on the right especially could use some more.

Jameson O'Guinn

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Main System: Schiit Bifrost MB, Rega Planar 6 with Exact cartridge, Eros 2, BeePre, Kaiju/Stereomour II, Jagers, Mainline

Desktop System: Crack with Speedball


Offline bernieclub

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Reply #41 on: August 15, 2021, 09:48:17 AM
It looks like the solder has balled up on the joint but not flowed.   The wire and terminal should be hot enough so that the solder flows onto the joint without the solder touching the iron.   It should leave a concave meniscus, with the solder trying to creep along the metal surfaces.   

Bernie Zitomer


Online Thermioniclife

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Reply #42 on: August 15, 2021, 10:13:00 AM
Yeah, you must place the tip of your iron on the terminal and the wire simultaneously so they come up to temperature BEFORE adding solder. Perhaps count to 5 before adding solder. As I stated earlier I set my iron to 650f, if you use an 800f or more you can cut the time down.

Lee R.


Offline beatcomber

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Reply #43 on: August 15, 2021, 12:04:55 PM
This is helpful advice, which along with the encouragement, is greatly appreciated. I’ll give it another shot!



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #44 on: August 15, 2021, 12:46:55 PM

Resistance at 12 & 6 is .272 ohms.

Resistance at 12 & 10 is .303 ohms.
Those are resistances that I would expect with an OK headphone jack *if* that is 272 and 303 ohms, or 0.272K ohms and 0.303K ohms.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man