Solder check

[Knightstick]

Hello, I just got into the shunt upgrade for my Stereomour. I'm just wondering if these solder joints look okay. I don't want to continue until I know I'm on the right path.  Thanks in advance.

[Paul Birkeland]

What kind of flux is floating around on there?  How does the other side of the board look?

A pair of proper side cutters will allow you to trim the leads down closer to the board, and the CHP-170 is generally available inexpensively at a lot of places.

[Knightstick]

Thanks for your response. I'm using Cardas Quad Eutectic Solder and the rosin core is probably what that gunk is. On the top I can see the shine of the solder, so that's how the top looks.

[Thermioniclife]

There are a couple of snotty crystallized joints that could use some more heat.

[Paul Birkeland]

If you have an adjustable iron, I would suggest cranking it to maximum heat as well so the solder flows out as quickly as possible.

[Knightstick]

Thanks guys. I do have a Hakko 888D that's running at 682. So I'll crank it to the top.

[Paul Birkeland]

Also be careful with the 888, as it's easy to think you're turning up the temperature when you are actually calibrating the iron instead, and that will lead to an even lower tip temperature when the display says the temp is maxed out.

[Knightstick]

Okay thanks. I'll have to reread the manual.  I might have already messed it up the way you said is possible.

[Knightstick]

Also be careful with the 888, as it's easy to think you're turning up the temperature when you are actually calibrating the iron instead, and that will lead to an even lower tip
temperature when the display says the temp is maxed out.

Thanks Paul. Just want to make sure this temperature of 899° is right? That's up to the top.

[Paul Birkeland]

That's where I run my 888.

[Knightstick]

That's awesome! Thanks so much!!!

[Deluk]

I run my non adjustable Weller with #7 = 700º tips and it works fine. I also use Cardas for Hi Fi, but used to use it professionally with aerospace boards and equipment, black boxes for aircraft for example, with standard 60/40 multicore with no problems. It was the standard we used. When you are a whizz and soldering all of the time doing the work with the control turned right up is probably fine but 700º gets the job done with a nice amount of control, especially with board work.