Way OT, Repair Of A Cast Metal Figurine

Grainger49 · 12502

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Offline Grainger49

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on: November 04, 2009, 11:02:35 AM
Yesterday I discovered a broken heirloom.  It belonged to my Grandfather.  It is a cast metal man that now has his legs broken from the body mid calf.  The two parts almost fit together.  The metal looks very crystalline.  It isn't iron and too light to be aluminum.

I was thinking of glue or soldering but I don't want it to show.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks!
« Last Edit: November 04, 2009, 11:10:48 AM by Grainger49 »



Offline Len

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Reply #1 on: November 04, 2009, 11:07:12 AM
What is the metal?

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Offline Grainger49

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Reply #2 on: November 04, 2009, 11:09:04 AM
Sorry, all I know is that it isn't ferrous.  It isn't susceptible to a magnet.  It is too heavy to be aluminum.



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #3 on: November 04, 2009, 11:17:09 AM
Do a little bit of light sanding and use a dab of clear E6000.  It is silicone based, but it cures very, very thin if you don't apply too much. 

You could also try two part epoxy, but I find that to work better with porous materials and large surface areas.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

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Offline Wardsweb

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Reply #4 on: November 04, 2009, 11:57:18 AM
How about a very small amount of JB Weld.



Offline Grainger49

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Reply #5 on: November 04, 2009, 12:42:17 PM
If I were to sand the ends they wouldn't fit anymore.  It is hard to explain but the picture shows how irregular it is.

Luther, Will JB Weld work without putting it on the outside as well.  I haven't used it but I have always seen it used that way.  That is, inside and around the outside like a putty bandage.

I took a picture and reduced the resolution.  It still shows the broken end well.  You can see how jagged it is.  And it shows that the break is at the ankles just above the boots.

Edited to make sense with the picture.
« Last Edit: November 12, 2009, 02:55:51 AM by Grainger49 »



Offline Grainger49

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Reply #6 on: November 05, 2009, 10:56:48 AM
Bump, I added a picture in the post above.  This shows the odd nature of the metal.



Offline Len

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Reply #7 on: November 05, 2009, 11:04:25 AM
Bump, I added a picture in the post above.  This shows the odd nature of the metal.


Can't really tell from here, but it looks like a zinc die casting.

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Offline Grainger49

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Reply #8 on: November 05, 2009, 11:53:44 AM
Len,

I will go with a casting.  These things were all around (way before I was born) back in the 1920s.

Like I said, it belonged to my Grandfather.  Do you think soldering (something I'm pretty good at) might do?  Any suggestion would help.  I'm afraid of screwing it up.



Offline Len

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Reply #9 on: November 05, 2009, 12:06:36 PM
Len,

I will go with a casting.  These things were all around (way before I was born) back in the 1920s.

Like I said, it belonged to my Grandfather.  Do you think soldering (something I'm pretty good at) might do?  Any suggestion would help.  I'm afraid of screwing it up.

Hey Grainger,

Here is a google link to repairing zinc die casting http://www.google.com/search?q=repairing+zinc+die+casting&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1

I've made quite a few sculptures (wax to bronze, ceramic, woodcarving) and had to repair some. The problem with soldering it back together is that then you need to resculpt it. Also, this looks like it has a patina that you won't be able to duplicate.

Hopefully others have better suggestions than mine:

What I would do is drill a hole into both parts in as close to a straight line as visually possible, making sure not to get too close to any surface. Then I would take a metal pin smaller than the hole, put it in the hole and make sure you can put it together with the pin inside. Then I would put some epoxy in both holes, making sure it's not too much so it won't be forced to the surface when the pin is installed.

Then pray, stick in the pin and assemble, holding it in position for a few minutes until the epoxy takes a set. There would probably still be a line, but very small if it was cleaned well first. A very fine paintbrush with a patina that's close should hide that, too.

Needless to say, get a good night's sleep first.

Paramours
Paraglows
Excites
Heavily modded Soul Sister and Groove Thang
Quickie modded to active low pass filter
Quickie modded to headphone amp
Lots of Bottlehead parts used for building other stuff


Offline Grainger49

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Reply #10 on: November 05, 2009, 02:29:48 PM
Len,

I only wish my hands were that steady.  I am going to buy several different bonding agents - all kinds - and do some experiments first.

Thanks for the advice.



Offline bainjs

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Reply #11 on: November 11, 2009, 12:24:22 AM
JB Weld is great stuff.  I think you would be able to use a small amount and not have any show on the outside.  I've used it to fix cast metal such as chain saw housings and it has lasted for years with a lot of abuse.

I understand about wanting to preserve something from your grandfather.  Things like this are very precious and remind us of simpler times.

Joel

Joel Bain


Offline Grainger49

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Reply #12 on: November 11, 2009, 12:38:10 AM
Joel,

This is good news.  It is sitting on my dining room table waiting for a solution.  I'll get some today and beat myself till I finish this job.  I have too many projects still hanging that are not finished.  It causes great consternation.  

Again, thanks to all who responded.



Offline grufti

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Reply #13 on: November 11, 2009, 03:58:54 PM
I second the JB Weld recommendation.

Apply it with a small pointy object for delicate work. I often use the tip of a wooden toothpick. Don't apply to close to the outer edge of your crack, and don't apply very much. The stuff bonds like crazy and your figurine will hold together with minimal amounts.

JB Weld takes a while to set. I've used all kinds of tape to hold objects together in the interim. Good luck.



Offline grufti

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Reply #14 on: November 11, 2009, 07:55:56 PM
Just in case you're not convinced yet that very minute amounts of JB Weld will do the job for you:

http://www.cyclingnews.com/blogs/barbara-howe/dedication

The clincher is towards the end of this story: seat stays on cyclo cross bikes suffer unbelievable punishment, enough punishment actually to break the original seat stays sometimes.