Power Switch Specs

mmwwhats · 11446

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Offline mmwwhats

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on: February 12, 2024, 04:59:49 PM
I'm trying to build my Moreplay into a custom chassis and want to use a metal toggle switch as the power switch. I'm new to all this, but am seeing some specs when looking for power switches eg: max current, voltage rating w/ resistive load and want to make sure I'm getting the correct switch to do things safely and durably. Is anyone able to provide the specs I should be looking for when choosing a power switch for Moreplay?



Offline hmbscott

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Reply #1 on: February 12, 2024, 06:04:32 PM
I used a SPST Light Duty Toggle Switch from Parts Express, which worked fine. I have used the same switch for a couple other Bottlehead kits with no issues.

https://www.parts-express.com/SPST-Light-Duty-Toggle-Switch-060-542

Scott
[Ortofon 2M Bronze > U-Turn Theory > Eros II] & [iMac via USB > Denafrips Ares 2] >> Moreplay >> Schiit Lokius EQ >> Stereomour II >> Hsu ULS-15 Sub >> homemade DML Speakers
Moreplay 2nd out >> [Crack + Speedball > HD 650]


Offline 2wo

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Reply #2 on: February 12, 2024, 06:05:11 PM
Most toggle switches for AC use are rated for 3--6 amps at 120 V, which is much more than you need. You probably only need about 1 amp but anything 2 amps or better to be safe... John
« Last Edit: February 12, 2024, 06:08:27 PM by 2wo »

John S.


Offline Paul Joppa

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Reply #3 on: February 12, 2024, 06:46:55 PM
If you're in the US, you are switching 120vAC, but I'd want a 250vAC rating for the safety margin. I personally would want a healthy current rating (5 to 10 amps) for longevity - the inrush current at switch-on is greater than the steady-state current.

DC voltage ratings are much lower, often 24 or 30 volts DC, but the power switch is handling only AC so that is not important.

Some switches are also rated for powering motors, which are a reactive (inductive and/or capacitive) load - that's a plus since the transformer is inductive and the power supply filter is capacitive. But there is no real need for a reactive rating in this application.

Incidentally, I'm pretty conservative about ratings. The risky thing is switching high DC voltages with an AC-rated switch, which sometimes happens with a "standby" switch in a guitar amp. There is a small arc  every time in that case. But even then it takes a lot of switching to wear down the switch; most seem to last decades in spite of violating the specs. A replacement switch rated for 15 amps AC is sometimes used in that position to extend the switch life.

Paul Joppa


Offline Deluk

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Reply #4 on: February 13, 2024, 01:06:09 AM
Switching to a toggle switch would mean losing the built in fuse. I'd prefer not to do that. For safety you would need to fit one somewhere convenient in the unit rather than rely on the one in your wall plug.



Offline AG

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Reply #5 on: February 13, 2024, 02:15:54 AM
hi,
 I am using a Carling switch 125 VAC 6A, the fuse it's in the IEC power connector, why you will lose it if you install a new switch?
Andre.

“Without music life would be a mistake”


Offline Doc B.

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Reply #6 on: February 13, 2024, 07:32:01 AM
If you want a really beefy toggle get a run switch for a Hammond B3. You can find them with a 125V 16A rating. Complete and utter overkill. I used one to handle the load on my Hammond Model E (two tone generators/motors) running a Leslie tallboy cabinet and two Hammond tone cabinets.

https://youtu.be/40mHviJFEyw?si=3_xRJbVqkfbShUTe

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
President For Life
Bottlehead Corp.


Offline hmbscott

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Reply #7 on: February 13, 2024, 09:02:48 AM
Doc, Man that's a blast from the past! My grandfather had a Hammond with a Leslie speaker, looked like a 981 back in the 1960's.

Scott
[Ortofon 2M Bronze > U-Turn Theory > Eros II] & [iMac via USB > Denafrips Ares 2] >> Moreplay >> Schiit Lokius EQ >> Stereomour II >> Hsu ULS-15 Sub >> homemade DML Speakers
Moreplay 2nd out >> [Crack + Speedball > HD 650]