Lost left channel after shunt regulator install

blue360cuda · 4910

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Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #15 on: February 27, 2025, 06:00:11 PM
what specifically do you not like about the Iso tangos? 
Let's look at the XE-20S, which is often pushed as a great transformer for use with 300Bs at the $1000 price point.
https://tango-trans.com/wp-content/uploads/catalog/XE-20S.pdf

In the 3.5K configuration, the 18H of primary inductance means the transformer holds up to about 35Hz, then kinda dies below that (both rolled-off response and rising distortion). In the 3.5K:8 ohm configuration, there's a ton of unused copper on the secondary winding which reduces the performance of the transformer (poor coupling/treble issues).  This issue is really bad in the 5K:8 configuration where very little of the secondary winding is used. 

Perhaps the most irksome thing about the XE-20S is the "20W" rating.  I've seen measurements of this transformer at 3.5W at 30Hz when used as a 5K unit, which gets you about 5W/30Hz when used as a 3.5K unit.

Now if we compare that to the Monolith S-9:
https://monolithmagnetics.com/sites/default/files/datasheets/Single-ended-output-transformers/datasheet%20S-9%20300B%20single%20ended%20output%20transformer%20prelim.pdf
There's about double the primary inductance, and this output transformer will stay well composed to 16Hz.  Notice that they give a power rating that is power with frequency, so the 10W at 17Hz is about 6 times the power handling of the XE-20S.   This transformer is also flat to about 100kHz being driven by a 300B.  All of this performance comes at a price tag that's around $700. 

The Lundahl LL2785C gives 30H of primary inductance with about the same DCR as the Monolith and the Tango with slightly poorer high frequency response and a 16W/30Hz power rating.  These are $600...

These comparisons become even more obvious when you compare the weight of these pieces of iron, as the Tango is 2kG, the Monolith is 5kG, and the Lundhahl is 2.5kG with no steel case.

In the Kaiju iron, there's even more primary inductance in the plate choke (40H), and the power handling of the output transformer is quite high (PJ might remember where that landed, I wouldn't be surprised to see 20W/30Hz), though we don't push as hard to extend the highs beyond what's considered audible.  The issues associated with unused copper on the secondary windings are mitigated by having two tapped windings that can be put in series or parallel to get different step-down ratios rather than having a single secondary winding.

The FC-40-3.5S is a little bit better, but now you're spending $1500 to get a transformer that's still not as good as the European units that are less than half the price. 

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline blue360cuda

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Reply #16 on: February 28, 2025, 04:31:12 AM
Thanks PB for the explanation!   Appreciate it  :D



Offline Paul Joppa

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Reply #17 on: February 28, 2025, 06:34:19 PM
OT-5 is 10W at 25Hz, 20W at 35Hz, 40W at 50Hz. (In Kaiju it's 8W at 22Hz).

Incidentally, I looked up OT-2 as used it Stereomour and S.E.X. As used in Stereomour (4K primary impedance ) it's about half that, and in S.E.X. it's 1/4. All three amps have the same bass extension - full power down to 22Hz.

Paul Joppa


Offline blue360cuda

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Reply #18 on: March 04, 2025, 02:54:46 PM
JB and PJ -  thank you both for the info.   Any desire to play with OT and chokes is pretty much a thing of the past for me with the Stereomour now. I've finished the shunt regulator, DC filament and last weekend did the stepped attenuator mod.  Holy cow, loving it more every day!  Before this amp, the best sounding I've owned was an older model of the Decware EL84 SET that's had a few tweaks. Dang, this Stereomour blows it away in every way now- I'm seriously grinning ear to ear listening to it. It's always fun when your favorite records sound new all over again :) 

Follow up Q-  Since I did the DC filament mod, is there any way to remove the trim pots from the circuit?  It'd be nice to clean up the top and maybe use that real estate for something else like an impedance switch. I just scored some 16ohm 604Es and my other speakers are 8ohm so going between 8-16 would be nice.



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #19 on: March 04, 2025, 03:00:38 PM
The hum pots probably aren't necessary for most people once the DC filament supply is installed, but you'd have to fit some new 22 ohm resistors to where they land now on the terminal strip over to where the white wire/cathode bias resistors land.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline blue360cuda

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Reply #20 on: March 04, 2025, 03:49:29 PM
Good to know!     Would it be best to use a similar ceramic resistor or would a 5W wirewound like this be ok?
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Draloric/Z34081832209J6DC04?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvNd0dY0KymzkXrYz8I%252Bic576HS3yycCw8%3D



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #21 on: March 04, 2025, 04:02:03 PM
The 5W rating is pretty overkill, especially in a 2A3 amp, I wouldn't hesitate to use something like a PR-02 or PR-03 from Vishay.  The 5W parts we provide are super easy to install, and they sit on top of the hum pot cleanly and have a lot of space between the leads and the edge of the body of the resistor, which prevents what could be a catastrophic short if those leads touch the body of the hum pot.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline blue360cuda

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Reply #22 on: March 04, 2025, 05:00:02 PM
Awesome,  I think the layout will be perfect.  I can use the input side for a line out DPDT switch and figure out a good spot to put the extra pair of RCAs and use the power side for a 4pDT 8/16 Oh impedance switch. Should be able to get by with only one v.s. the twin switches for 2-4-8-16.   Would be cool to find a place online who makes custom faceplates or silk-screening and do a pair of switch surrounds to match the trim plate that comes with the mourquiet upgrade.   I'm liking it :)

What amp rating would be safe for the 4PDT impedance switch? 
« Last Edit: March 04, 2025, 05:52:23 PM by blue360cuda »



Offline Karl5150

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Reply #23 on: March 05, 2025, 02:48:31 AM
I've used Front Panel Express for my personalized BH plates / overlays. No skin in the game, and maybe not the cheapest, but I liked the interface and the service.
Karl

Karl
Downstairs: Planar3>PH-16>Stereomour II>OB Betsy+
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Offline 2wo

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Reply #24 on: March 05, 2025, 06:05:55 PM
What amp rating would be safe for the 4PDT impedance switch?

Looks like 1 amp leaves you with some headroom. Pretty much any switch meant for AC should work fine

John S.


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #25 on: March 06, 2025, 06:38:22 AM
Though the amp is capable of more current on the speaker posts than 1A, in reality you aren't going to be toggling this switch a ton, and equally unlikely will be flipping the switch with the amp running at near max power.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline blue360cuda

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Reply #26 on: March 08, 2025, 04:03:54 AM
I got this for the impedance switch. Only 1 4PDT to do  8/16 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/506-MTA406N

and this for the signal / line out https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/506-MTA206P

Both gold contacts rated for 6amps.