Mainline Questions

Tabaia · 14305

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Offline Tabaia

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Reply #15 on: April 04, 2025, 09:32:14 PM
here is another photo



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #16 on: April 05, 2025, 05:02:20 AM
I'd leave your iron on those joints a bit longer.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Tabaia

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Reply #17 on: April 07, 2025, 10:32:27 PM
Hi Paul,
I have done a fair bit of reworking and I think it might be good now,
Would you kindly have a look over the solder as well as the component placement.
I think is all correct however since i'm a first timer it would be great to have it looked over by someone in the know.
Looking forward to your response

Many thanks Tunji



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #18 on: April 08, 2025, 04:48:19 AM
The 1N5820s and the 5W resistor have not been heated enough to be properly soldered. 

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Tabaia

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Reply #19 on: April 08, 2025, 11:25:04 AM
can you provide some constructive feedback please



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #20 on: April 08, 2025, 12:14:31 PM
can you provide some constructive feedback please
The 1N5820s and the 5W resistor have not been heated enough to be properly soldered. 


Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #21 on: April 08, 2025, 12:16:25 PM
The bigger a part is, the more heat you need to apply to get the solder to flow out properly.  The two big resistors on your C4S boards in the R2 positions need more heat for the solder to flow out properly, and the MJE5731A transistors also need a lot more heat.  You can set your iron on one of these solder joints, add a little bit of solder, then count to 5, then pull it off.  You'll also see the solder suck into the board at some point when it has gotten hot enough, and you want to leave the iron on just a little longer after that happens.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Tabaia

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Reply #22 on: May 13, 2025, 07:42:38 PM
Hello Paul,

I just wanted to ask a question regarding the first volt rest for the Mainline.
A little confusing as we are on 240V here in Australia.
My test read 247V.
How should I proceed?



Offline Tabaia

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Reply #23 on: May 13, 2025, 07:50:34 PM
Actually its 275V



Offline Tabaia

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Reply #24 on: May 13, 2025, 09:33:20 PM
After turning a few pages I found the 240 V section.
Mostly its around 245 V so I have opted for that connection.Greater than 235V and less than 245V.
But the power her varies a lot. still it seems that is the best optioj.
Let me know if that is OK.



Offline Tabaia

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Reply #25 on: May 13, 2025, 09:54:32 PM
Now I did the snd Voltage test with no reading?
Hmmm what have I done.




Offline Tabaia

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Reply #26 on: May 13, 2025, 10:58:17 PM
The Volume switches,

These are not straight.
So they are out of alignment.
Please see photos, any suggestions will be welcome to fix this.
I measured with a calliper The bottom of the shaft near the screw measures just under 82mm and the top measures just over 80mm so at least 1.5mm out of alignment.

Tunji



Offline Doc B.

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Reply #27 on: May 14, 2025, 04:27:48 AM
There is a tab on the rotary switch where it goes against the panel, and a slot in the panel hole that the tab should be put into. Loosen the nut and turn the switch body until the tab drops into the slot, then retighten the nut.

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
President For Life
Bottlehead Corp.


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #28 on: May 14, 2025, 04:40:41 AM
It looks like you might have the toothed lockwasher on the attenuator switches in the wrong spot.  It needs to go between the nut and the panel for each switch.

Yes, wiring for the 240V nominal primary when you have 247V is the way to go.

No voltage on your transformer test would have me looking at whether the fuse is installed properly in the IEC power entry module.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Tabaia

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Reply #29 on: May 14, 2025, 12:22:08 PM
Absolutely Perfect  :)
Test all excellent and switches installed properly.
Thank you.
Your experience is invaluable.