220V into a 110V Crack+Speedball

mxbr0 · 1661

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline mxbr0

  • Newbie
  • *
    • Posts: 3
on: May 01, 2025, 10:07:51 AM
Hopefully this will be good for a laugh, or a little variety in the problems department.
 
I was really tired the other night, and should have just gone to bed.  But no--instead, I foolishly decided to listen to some music with my stock Crack+Speedball which has been working just fine for around 3 years now. 

I moved it to a different room, and without thinking (obviously), plugged it into the nearest open outlet--which happened to be a 220V outlet from a Voltage Converter that accepts a wide (perhaps too wide) of a variety of plugs.  (I use it for some foreign-made equipment.) I flipped the switch on, and turned away for a few seconds, when a  hissing sound caught my attention.  I turned back to see a very impressive cloud of smoke streaming from the unit.  I threw the switch to kill the power on the converter and just let it all sit for a while. 

Once the smoke cleared I was surprised to observe a couple of things:
1) there were no significant visual signs of damage--no burn or scorch marks anywhere.
2) The fuse somehow hadn't blown.  (Maybe that blows on high current instead of voltage.)
3) The only observably altered component was the 220 uF capacitor across terminals 20 and 21.  Its shiny top was pointing slightly outward, instead of being perfectly flat.  There were a few drops of what I presume was electrolyte beneath the unit which maybe boiled out during its brief overload.  I expect this will need to be replaced.
4) When making the measurements below, the tubes and all LEDs light up.  (Surprising to me.)

For measurements:
1) I did the standard Crack resistance check, and everything seemed fine, noting that Terminals 7, 9, B3, and B6 didn't read 2.9K, but I expect that's because of the Speedball.
2) On the Crack, the voltage checks are within expected ranges _except_ for terminals 2 and 4, which are at 148V, instead of 170V.
3) On the Speedball:
   a) On the small board, OA, B-A/B, and OB are fine (84, 8, 84.5), but IA and IB read 149.9 (low)
   b) On the large board, OA and OB are 103.2V, and 100.2V, and G is at 0, but B+ is at 149.5 (again low)

I'd appreciate some sage advice on what components likely need replacement.

Oh, and there's now a piece of duct tape very securely blocking that all-too-welcoming 220V outlet.

Thanks!



Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 20197
Reply #1 on: May 01, 2025, 01:01:01 PM
Dude, don't turn that thing on when you know the power supply has blown up. 

You'll 100% want to replace all three 220uF/250V caps.  I suspect that is all you'll need to do to get the amp back into proper working order.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline mxbr0

  • Newbie
  • *
    • Posts: 3
Reply #2 on: May 01, 2025, 01:57:32 PM
Thanks Paul!  New caps are on the way.

I was guessing that all of the magic smoke had not yet been released from the components.  I guess I lucked out.

(Granted, plugging it in to get the measurements was probably right up there with plugging it into 220 in the first place... ::)  Although this time I don't have fatigue to blame.)



Offline mxbr0

  • Newbie
  • *
    • Posts: 3
Reply #3 on: May 02, 2025, 10:12:32 PM
And indeed, with the caps replaced, the voltages fell into line, and the Crack is up and running again.  Thanks again, Paul!

One question, though: I accidentally bought the CY(M) caps instead of the CS(M) caps.  The specs are nearly identical, and both datasheets stated, "Suited for power supply and ballast application."  I found one thread where you (Paul) stated, "the UCY caps from Nichicon are about the best rated caps I have found for that job." I tried to figure out the differences, but for these purposes, are they essentially interchangeable?

m@



Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 20197
Reply #4 on: May 03, 2025, 06:49:24 AM
The UCY are more compact and will fit sideways on the 6 lug terminal strips without hitting the wood base.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man