Output Capacitor Upgrading Questions

[grausch]

I still need to decide on the sequence of implementing the improvements. Currently the Crack is stripped down. I needed some new cloth wire (as it does not take kindly to being twisted with a drill) and USPS still hasn't updated the shipping status a month after the label was created. Once I receive that, the build can progress further.

Updates that will affect the sound that are all incoming are:
Schottky diodes (saw richmi's build and they were cheap)
Output caps (everyone needs big caps )
Speedball (since this will make the biggest difference, definitely interested)
Triad C-7X (after all of the above, I figured, why not?)

Buildwise, I am not sure yet which upgrades will go in first, but Speedball will go in before the output caps. Everything else is still up in the air. Any suggestions on a preferred order?

[Lee Hankins]

I have just rebuilt my Crack.  Here is a list of the things that I upgraded after the original Crack build.

-New 7 X 10 top plate so that all of these items can fit without being overly crowded", the main reason for the rebuild, and was able to reuse my burl top
-Speedball
-silver/gold input wire (could not believe the difference this made, only need 24")
-Goldpoint attenuator (IMHO the first thing that should be change in any bottlehead kit, usually install dual mono Khozmo   attenuators for the 48 steps and balance control)
-output caps 108uf (used paralleled 54uf aerovox caps)
-power supply cap 108uf (used what I had on hand, same paralleled caps as output caps) and CX-7 choke, started out with a 47uF solen, then 4 22uF solens, sound seemed to improve with each increase in uF, but could have been just wish full thinking
-Cree schottky diodes (do not believe that this is necessary, but usually install them in all of my builds anyway, just covering all angles)

Hope this helps, the stock Crack is a very good amp, but with these mods it is just amazing. 

[Grainger49]

Awesome!

[grausch]

Lee,

Are you telling me you rebuilt the "Custom Crack" of yours? That is a phenomenal build...can't wait to see how it looks now.

I am just thinking about an upgrade path that will make me notice differences of each individual upgrade. Generally I am sceptical of hearing differences, but I plan on upgrading a certain part, maybe listening for an hour or two, upgrading another part and so on.

Speedball will most likely make the biggest sonic difference. Installing the Schottky's early on will be much easier than installing them at a later stage. Thus, still need to plan the build out a little so that ease of installation is maintained and sonic upgrades are noticeable.

[EarWorm]

I just grabbed these two from Hifi Collective.  The price is very good at the moment.
 

[Hornet900]

I just grabbed these two from Hifi Collective.  The price is very good at the moment.

nice    I nearly bought those once  

I have the standard 100uf  mcaps  and like them quite alot but I haven't tried any other nice film caps , I did reinstall the standard caps to see if I could hear a sound difference and I could def hear a difference.  the mcaps do make the amp sound better and even better with burn in I think
I bypassed them few months ago with small Mundorf MCap Supremes  and that changed the sound again , 

The sound does change and get better with burn in dont it?

[EarWorm]

Grabbed these a while back for the power supply.   I'm on an extremely super slow build while I work on other things and wait for sales on upgraded components.  For some reason the crack is compelling me to buy these components.  I probably need help.

[JamieMcC]

Grabbed these a while back for the power supply.   I'm on an extremely super slow build while I work on other things and wait for sales on upgraded components.  For some reason the crack is compelling me to buy these components.  I probably need help.

That one surely belongs on the Capacitor Porn thread 

http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php?topic=4744.msg61116#msg61116

[Grainger49]

I agree, capacitor porn.  I posted a pair that were bought for my Paramours.  They are the volume of 3/5 of the underside of the amps.  Unusable unless outside the amps.

[EarWorm]

I actually have three of those.  I posted them back in capacitor porn before the forum update but somehow the photos got lost.

Also grabbed two hammond 159 chokes.   

[Grainger49]

I didn't realize what was below the caps till I clicked on the picture.  Those are much bigger than the ones I got for my Paramours.

[grausch]

Just received the Jantzen Cross Cap 100uf 400V. The diameter of these is too large to mount them to the chassis top-plate so I will need to either make an alternate plan (perhaps using standoffs with a mounting plate) or just buy other caps. Guess the cost will be roughly similar.

Anyway, we don't have soda cans in the house, but have a 500ml Vitamin Water bottle for comparison.

(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FYeLgBWl.jpg&hash=1c7c495c07d21133bbfc700ad6c3279772d03d49)

[ZacharyP]

A zip tie through a zip tie holder attached to the inside of the wooden base might do the trick!

[grausch]

I thought the same thing, but am not really that keen on attaching anything to the base itself. I will need to remove zip ties every time I pick up the top plate, and I quite frequently go under the hood of my Crack.

Mike has provided an excellent idea in his thread - http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php?topic=1632.15. I could also use terminal strips and then accomplish the same goal. The caps are pretty light so letting them hang on their leads should be ok.

Another option would be to use one zip tie around the cap, with a 2nd zip tie between the prior zip tie and the cap. Then thread the 2nd zip tie through a zip tie mount on the top plate. Difficult to explain, but the 2nd zip tie will just be used to hang the cap on. Thus, the cap will not be firmly affixed until the leads are soldered in place, but the weight of the cap will be borne by the mount and not the leads. However, by hanging the caps this way, the clearance issue with the Speedball may be avoided.

In any case, these were cheap caps and based on some other recommendations, I could install 47uf caps in that position and not lose too much low-end. That will solve a lot of my real-estate problems.

[ZacharyP]

Just bypassed my 100uf Solen mkp coupling caps with a 1uf 250vdc kommiekap K73-11 PETP, which I then bypassed with vishay-roederstein mkp 1837 .1 uf, 160vdc caps.

First listen I hear better separation of the instruments, better bass extension with more realistic feel, and a touch more smoothness to the mids in the best way.  Can't wait to let them fully burn in.