Cheap multimeter?

[JSitthi]

Hey Bottleheads,

I'll be receiving my Crack kit this Monday but I'm having a hard time finding a multimeter sufficient for this project. I'm seeing the Fluke brand being thrown around here but I'm not willing to spend that kind of money. What are some cheap alternatives? I currently have this multimeter that I got for free from Harbor Freight, but I don't think it has the correct AC and DC range for this project: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-90899.html

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

[Grainger49]

For $5 you can't go wrong.  Although I am a big fan of Harbor Freight if you continue this hobby you will want a better meter some time.  Used Flukes can be had for under $100, often in the range of $60-$80.  The Fluke will change ranges for you.  For instance you set it to DC and it will read a C cell, 1.5V, and the B+ on a Paramount ~470V, no switching ranges.

Edit: See, this is what I use for starting my charcoal grill.  I got tired of those awful paraffin and sawdust things taking over 30 minutes to start the fire in my Green Egg.  With this I fire it up it throws a 3 foot flame and throw on steaks in 5 minutes:

http://www.harborfreight.com/propane-torch-with-push-button-igniter-91037.html

Can you imagine Tim Allen with one of these?

[elcraigo]

You might look at something like: Triplett 1101-B (under $40)
I have one of those $5 ones in my tool box for emergencies and it is not very good.
But, I am comparing this to my main meter, a Fluke 8060A

[JSitthi]

For $5 you can't go wrong.  Although I am a big fan of Harbor Freight if you continue this hobby you will want a better meter some time.  Used Flukes can be had for under $100, often in the range of $60-$80.  The Fluke will change ranges for you.  For instance you set it to DC and it will read a C cell, 1.5V, and the B+ on a Paramount ~470V.

So are you saying that I could get through the build using this $5 meter? If it's possible, I'll do it. I'm trying to maximize the money I save from building it myself!

[Grainger49]

The Harbor Freight meter will give you readings that are fairly accurate.  What will give you trouble is when you are on the low end of a range.  I advise that you squirt glue in the 10A probe hole to keep you from ever using it as well as never trying to measure milli-amps either.  Until you are skilled those can get you in trouble.

When it comes to checkout time you can post anything GREATER than 15% out of spec here in the forum. 

[mchurch]

I agree with not wanting spend a lot of money but, as Grainger49  already said, sooner or later you are going need a better device. And if you continue in the hobby you will at some point wish you had one. Another good alternate to fluke to consider are the Agilent line. I picked up a brand new one on sale for $100.00 Model U1233A. It even came with the traceable certificate of calibration.

So far I have found it to be a great low cost aid to my building.

Cheers

Mike

[Grainger49]

I've used flukes since 1984.  I have replaced the batteries twice, blew a fuse once.  I have never even questioned the reading I have gotten.  Poster Paully has this one (I think):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fluke-15B-Auto-range-Digital-Capacitance-Inductance-multimeter-meter-Test-17B-/220868418663?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item336cc89c67

$55 +shipping is a good price.

[2wo]

Yes, buy that one. I was looking around for things to suggest. That is a good meter at a good price...John

[Paul Joppa]

Guys, poster JSitthi is building his first project - there's no need to spend as much on the meter as on the kit! The Harbor Freight meter has the DC voltage and resistance ranges needed to do the kit. The only place it falls short is low-voltage AC ranges (doesn't have any below 200v). Those will come in handy eventually if you build more kits, but I'm a big fan of not spending too much on tools until you are sure you'll need them.

I have 4 or 5 meters myself - only one is a really good Fluke; the rest are stuff I picked up at Radio Shack, usually on sale. Two have RS-232 computer ports. That feature has been obsolete for a decade now, and I never used it. One has a capacitance range which I frequently use.

I also got by with a 300-watt solder gun for years - inherited from my Dad's workshop long ago. Clumsy but worked. Finally my wife bought be a good solder station...  :^) 

I'm just sayin' you don't need the fancy stuff - it's nice but you don't NEED it.

[JSitthi]

Thanks Paul, that was the answer I was hoping to hear. I, too, am not fond of buying things until I know I need them. I doubt I will be building anymore kits after the Crack, but if I do then it doesn't hurt to wait to buy a proper one until then.

So what do you suggest doing when I need to measure those low AC volts? Just hope that I've done everything right and move on?

[Grainger49]

I had thought that was the advice that I had given in the first response. Buy a cheap one now and if you continue with this hobby you will want a better meter.  The example of a $55 Fluke is for the future.  As I said of the HF meter, "For $5 you can't go wrong."

P.S. See my modification of reply #1 above for a great HF charcoal starter, a must for all BBQ fans.

[Doc B.]

So what do you suggest doing when I need to measure those low AC volts? Just hope that I've done everything right and move on?

The meter will measure lower AC voltages, it just might not give a result out to as many decimal places as a lower range setting might on a meter that has those lower ranges. Might not work for measuring millivolts, but it will be fine for your purpose as all you might want to measure is the 6.3VAC heater supply.

[JSitthi]

Thanks, Doc.

And since I already have a thread up, I thought I'd ask the question here:

I might be missing the 270ohm 5W resistors, unless they're green now?

[Doc B.]

Thanks, Doc.

And since I already have a thread up, I thought I'd ask the question here:

I might be missing the 270ohm 5W resistors, unless they're green now?

They are green now.

[Grainger49]

I think the ones in my Eros were green.  I did scratch my head then measure with my meter.