Tried and proven

[davet]

I recognize that this forum is, primarily, for current products and support thereto, but there is extensive amount of data for the Straight 8s and various forms of the Whamodynes. These designs have [and do] deliver exceptional sound to multitudes of Bottleheads.

I built the SuperWhamodynes and after considerable tweaking based on information gathered via the forum I am more than happy with these speakers.

Maybe an area could be established for "legacy products" such as the foresaid, and the varrious Foreplay models. In addition there was a wealth of information passed on via Bhudda and others regarding these products that may be applicable ot the latest and greatest.

Some of the things that come to mind are: various power cable topologies, shunt volume controls, etc. There is a breadth of information that should be read and the pearls extracted for future reference.

[Doc B.]

Hi Dave,

I posted links to Whamodyne files and what we have for Straight 8 info. Hopefully we can dig up the rest of the Straight info and post it in the Straight 8 thread.

[Keim]

Davet:

I also have the Super Whamodynes.  I'm curious about the tweaks you mention.  What did you do?

I upgraded the capacitors, and set them up for bi-wiring.  Am curious what else you've found to be of benefit...

Thanks!
Darrell

[davet]

The first thing I did was in the way of the tower cabinets. The entire cabinet is made of 3/4-inch MDF which was put together with capenter's glue and screws. The front baffle is a double thickness of 3/4-inch MDF. The entire cabinet is clad in 1/4-inch white oak plywood. The corners (edges) are 3/4-inch quarter round oak. The speakers are flush mounted. The rear of the cabinet is in two parts so I could access the crossover without removing the entire back.

These towers are on pedestals that raise the tweeter to ear level. My towers are free standing from the bass modules. There is  plate on the bottom of the pedestal that is wide enough to keep the towers from falling over. This plate has field arrow points on them pointing down to couple them to the floor. The pedestal is bolted to the bottom of the towers.

The crossover in the tower is comprised of Auricaps and Goetz foil inductors. I spent considerable time listening to various internal wiring before settling on braided VH CAT5 formulation for the internal wiring. I know I used different number of strands for the mids and highs. I just don't recall right now how many strands for each.

The Towers are set up for bi-wring. I used stepped cups for the speaker connectors. I replaced the connectors with WBT clones via a bulk buy on another website. Connections are copper and crimped connections. I opted for crimps over solder.

The speaker cables to the towers from the amp are Jon Risch's 89259 formulation.

The bass modules are made of 3/4-inch MDF, carpenters glue, and screws. The internal cables are stranded 16-gauge copper wire. These modules are still just plain MDF. These bass modules are bi-wired. I use solid 12-gauge wire from the bass modules back to the amp.

My bass modules sit atop 3 1-inch super balls( ala DIYarmas). The balls are kept from rolling around on the floor by a slices of 1-1/4-inch PVC pipe. The balls are in a triangle arrangement. The modules are sitting on top of the balls. From time to time the modules have to be re-balanced on the balls.

My Bottlehead Foreplay I and these speakers rekindled my enthusiasm for the DIY aspects of this hobby.

Most of the tweaks to the SWs as stated above are based on hours of trail and error. Currently installed  tweaks based on what I heard in my listening environment with my system. The SWs have been played in a number of locations aside from my primary setup and they always impress those that hear them. I currently use my SWs with an amp that only puts out 10 watts. Rarely do I play the amp much loader than half-way.

I will look for and post a picture of my towers. If you have specific questions regrading any of the above you may message me directly.

[Keim]

Dave:

After reading your tweaks, I believe we corresponded at the time I was building my pair.  I ended up painting mine bright yellow.  Internal wiring was a somewhat cheap speaker wire I bought from a local stereo shop.  I think it was stranded 16 gauge.  Mine are set-up for tri-wiring:  subs, mids, and tweets each are wired directly to the amp.  Used the Big Studs Doc sold at the time for connectors.  Easily the most expensive part in the speakers!  Used auricap capacitors, and can't recall the coil brand.  Like your idea of doubling the MDF thickness.

I tried your arrow point tip, bu ended up removing it.  I couldn't hear a difference, and it made the towers more prone to tip over.  Couldn't have that with young ones in the house.

They sound great.

[Keim]

Here is a picture:
http://www.frappr.com/bottlehead/photos/601023

Like I said, they are bright yellow.  Actually got an interesting compliment on the color choice from an architect/artist friend.  He said "That is a great color choice.  Those are large, speakers that dominate the room.  The yellow serves to minimize them.  The eye can't look at bright yellow for very long, so you don't tend to look at the speakers."

I picked the color because they are in the basement.  Figured it would lighten up the room a bit.

[Grainger49]

I remember that picture.  And the yellow is not as frightening as it was in my mind when I read that you had painted them.  I used that color in the 70s for some book cases I made.

Nice work!

[davet]

I, too, remember the photo. I do believe we did communicate about the speakers some time ago. I must say that I am more than satisfied with SWs.

Next up for my SWs is tri-power.