Crack Repostioning?

[lextek]

Thinking of relocating the RCAs and power cord to the rear of the amp.  Maybe the headphone jack to the front.  I know some components need to have contact to the chassis plate for ground ( I think).  Any issues with doing this?  Not worried about the hole in the top plate, we've got some ideas for that too...

[porcupunctis]

I'm missing something here.  I thought the RCAs and the Power Connecter were already in the back and the volume and Hphone jack in the front.  That's how mine is.

How do you have your chassis oriented?

[Grainger49]

As long as you run the wires as instructed in the assembly manual you are fine. The inputs have a ground wire and should float from the top plate with the plastic washers anyway.  The IEC module will have a ground wire running to it and to the chassis.  I can't speak for the headphone jack.

[lextek]

I'm missing something here.  I thought the RCAs and the Power Connecter were already in the back and the volume and Hphone jack in the front.  That's how mine is.

How do you have your chassis oriented?

I want to mount the RCAs,IEC and headphone jack in the wood section not on the top chassis plate.

[lextek]

As long as you run the wires as instructed in the assembly manual you are fine. The inputs have a ground wire and should float from the top plate with the plastic washers anyway.  The IEC module will have a ground wire running to it and to the chassis.  I can't speak for the headphone jack.

Thanks

[porcupunctis]

OK, now I see what you mean.  The output jack should be fine mounted anywhere.  It is normally isolated from the chassis, anyway.  You will need to do some work with the wood to allow the jacks (both input and output) to be secured.  The base wood is way too thick as it is.

[btrancho]

Or you could do this:
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fcdn.head-fi.org%2Fe%2Fe7%2F350x467px-LL-e764bb72_CompletedCrackAmp.jpeg&hash=7cf34ead047fb4e11aad5c222bdd2cf810e22503)

as this Head-Fier did in stainless steel for his Crack.  But that means a custom cut plate and sides.  Nice looking, though.
 

[howardnair]

you will need to get different rca,s and a new iec inlet --those provided will not work -the rca,s are too short and the iec  is a pressure fit-you need a screw attached iec--being that your chassis is already built- drill,from the outside part way through with  a forstner bit first--use a drill press-- then finish your  hole with a regular bit that fits your rca-when you drill through the chassis clamp a scrap on the inside so you don't splinter the hole---a 3/4, 7/8 or 1 inch forstner will work depending on your rca--i would take the time to make a simulation of what you want to do and how you want it to look
http://www.partsconnexion.com/ac_furutech_plug_inlet.html
http://www.partsconnexion.com/product7494.html
you will not need the isolation washers with these rca connectors giving you a little more thread length----howie

[lextek]

OK, now I see what you mean.  The output jack should be fine mounted anywhere.  It is normally isolated from the chassis, anyway.  You will need to do some work with the wood to allow the jacks (both input and output) to be secured.  The base wood is way too thick as it is.

No problem with the woodworking part.  I was going to make a new wood case anyway. For the rear with the RCA and IEC.  I thought I would cut out a window and mount a metal panel from the inside.  Guessing that would allow the use of the stock pieces.  Should be fun.  Looks good in my head......

[porcupunctis]

The metal panel seems to be the way to go.  Seems like it would be easier to do the router work for the metal panel (once) and then let it accommodate several parts all in one fell swoop.  Front Panel Express can make you just about anything you want unless you have your own metal shop.