slipped while cutting/stripping wire....

[madbrayniak]

yea, i may have not done the greatest of keeping a mechanical connection but i was doing the best I could and I have soldered alot of different things....including things on pc motherboards....I triple checked all my solder joints too and they are all solid

Edit, if I wanted to clean it all off and rewire the entire thing how would I do that?

[corndog71]

Do you have one of these?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=370-040

Not sure what you are asking.  Do you need more wire?

[madbrayniak]

no i dont have one of those.  I know one way, which is a little more dangerous is to heat up the solder and shoot it with a can of compressed air....its how I cleaned it on pc boards before but that is different as you are cleaning it out of a small hole rather than a terminal tab.

I am going to remove the PJCCS today and try and reheat the terminals and get a better mechanical connection on every tab including the terminal 1-5 and the tube sockets

p.s. corndog71, if you really like corndogs the best I have ever had you can get at disneyland out of a little red wagon that is to your right as you are first walking out of mainstreet heading into the park....

[madbrayniak]

ok, i just finished resoldering terminals 1-5 and the tube sockets

using a pair of pliars I would make sure the wire was touching the terminals as the solder dried....

terminal 1-5 all read 0 still.  my socket readings are better but they arent where they need to be.  I suspect that the problem is all do to T3U but I am not sure

[corndog71]

I hope you remembered to pull the tubes out of the sockets before soldering.

[Grainger49]

ok, i just finished resoldering terminals 1-5 and the tube sockets

using a pair of pliers I would make sure the wire was touching the terminals as the solder dried....

terminal 1-5 all read 0 still.  my socket readings are better but they arent where they need to be.  I suspect that the problem is all do to T3U but I am not sure

Since you are getting readings (we don't know if it is resistance or voltage unless you tell us) it is best to post only readings that are greater than 15% +/- from expected. 

Give the expected ohms, and your ohms measured, only of those that are over 15% out of spec.

When you get to the voltage readings do the same, give what is expected and what you measure.

[madbrayniak]

wait, your supposed to unplug the tubes when you solder?!


Just playing...of course i pulled them

I dont know all the reading off the top of my head but I can tell you that I think it was socked a2 and b2 are supposed to be 23-25 and i was getting 2.3-2.4 on a2 and on b2 i was getting about 1.4 

I will double check those numbers tomorrow though

[madbrayniak]

btw, I can take some pictures of it tomorrow if that would help but I followed the instructions step by step and even double checked everything

[Grainger49]

First thing, check the wiring of the batteries.  Check at the beginning of Quickie folder for a correction on the D cell batteries wiring.  It is the top sticky.

wait, your supposed to unplug the tubes when you solder?!  .  .  .  .    

You wouldn't have been the first to do this.  That is why Rob asked.  I probably have soldered on sockets with tubes in but I'm experienced, and old!

The tubes get soldered into the socket if you let solder drip down into the socket.  You can't get the tubes out, you have to replace the socket and start over on that one.  It isn't fun.

[madbrayniak]

ok, i hadnt seen the battery connection fix at the top of this thread so I will fix that first before i take any pictures to put on here if it doesnt resolve my problem.


it wouldnt suprise me that people have ruined their stuff  by not taking out the tubes.  I didnt think of soldering a tube on there as a problem, i just took them out because i didnt know if the heat could do any damage or if there was anything else that could go wrong with them.

[madbrayniak]

ok, here are the reading I am getting

needed/read

t2 2.5-3/0

t4 2.5-3/0



A1 1.2-1.5/-1.4
A2 23-25/0

A4 23-25/2.43
A5 2.5-3/0
A6 23-25/2.43
A7 1.2-1.5/-1.5

B1 1.2-1.5/ -1.5
B2 23-25/0

B4 23-25/2.57
B5 2.5-3/0
B6 23-25/2.55
B7 1.2-1.5/-1.5

Please note, I did not make the changes that are stickied to the top of the Quickie forum as I do not have enough wire for the T4L to be moved and since it should still work from what I understand in its current configuration I am leaving it for now until I can get it fixed and then I will move the wires when I get some wire

[Grainger49]

First Question:  Are those volts or ohms?

Second Question:  Which are outside +/- 15% of expected.

It helps the helpers if we address ONLY those that are bad. 

[2wo]

I don't have a Quickie or it's manual but it looks like you don't have the filament voltage that is supplied from the D cells. I would recheck that part. Start with the wires from the battery holder, looking for 2.5-3V. then move to each connection to the tube socket. I would guess that there is a switch inline, that would be a good place for something to go wrong...JOhn   

[madbrayniak]

ok i took out the only ones that are reading right(T6-T10) and a couple socket connections

those are volts my manual for my cheap little multimeter doesnt talk about measuing ohms at all so I dont even know if it can

[madbrayniak]

John,

I am not sure if I did exactly what you mean but i grabbed some new D cell out of the pack even though the others were new.  Plugged them into the socket and tested it and I was still only getting 1.58 volts when testing right where they connect....

I am going through the manual AGAIN to see if I can find something that I did wrong.....

where would be the best place to get some wire, caps, resistors if I need to rebuild the whole thing again?