What else can I do to make SEX 2.1 quieter?

Todd R · 8352

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Doc B.

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 9555
    • Bottlehead
Reply #15 on: August 20, 2012, 05:28:24 AM
If you like 9259, try 89259, the foamed Teflon version. We've been comparing the two and 89259 is even better. Unfortunately it seems to be about 10X as much money by the foot.

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
President For Life
Bottlehead Corp.


Offline Grainger49

  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 7175
Reply #16 on: August 20, 2012, 05:35:27 AM
Yeah, I got some surplus 9259 when I specified 500' for an antenna job in 1992.  (Surplus got me my Tektronics oscilloscope and my 2.5kVA isolation transformer {both pulled from a dumpster})  I also soldered the F- Connectors for the job (not a union company so Cliff let me do the soldering).  I'll have to get some 89259.

I'm not sure, maybe the double 9259 was numbered 89259, or not.  I'll look.  It is on the cable rack behind my stereo.
« Last Edit: August 20, 2012, 05:39:42 AM by Grainger49 »



Offline fullheadofnothing

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 1487
  • A noble spirit embiggens the smallest man
Reply #17 on: August 20, 2012, 06:39:07 AM
To answer your question Todd, my quietest tubes are GE, but I would guess that noise is more variable tube to tube than brand to brand.

One other thing I was thinking about, have you put shorting plugs on the input to rule out noises from outside the amp (source, cabling, et cetera)?

One question I have for the group, the headphones in question are 118dB/mW. Assuming my math is correct (huge assumption) that means a nanowatt would produce noise of about 60 dB. Is this asking too much of the circuit?

In regards to the 120Ω resistors, would it be feasible to put them into an inline headphone adapter? This especially would make sense if they were terminated with a 1/8" plug and you needed an adapter anyway, but even a 1/4"->1/4" that you only use with the phones in question might make sense.

Joshua Harris

I Write the Manuals That Make The Whole World Sing
Kit Packer Emeritus


Offline Paul Joppa

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 5773
Reply #18 on: August 20, 2012, 10:46:20 AM
...
One question I have for the group, the headphones in question are 118dB/mW. Assuming my math is correct (huge assumption) that means a nanowatt would produce noise of about 60 dB. Is this asking too much of the circuit?

In regards to the 120Ω resistors, would it be feasible to put them into an inline headphone adapter? This especially would make sense if they were terminated with a 1/8" plug and you needed an adapter anyway, but even a 1/4"->1/4" that you only use with the phones in question might make sense.
Yes, it is asking too much. The residual noise is about 9 nanowatts (at least, it was with the earlier version; I don't think we've measured it with the newest revision but it should be very similar. That gives 69dB. The 120 ohm resistor will take that down about 18dB, to 51dB. Using the 4 ohm tap will pull it down another 6dB, to 45dB. In a typical room, background noise would be about 40dB(A) - the A scale de-emphasizes the hum but is an accurate reflection of buzz.

I would consider adding both the 120 ohm series resistor and a parallel resistor of around 6 ohms. This will give another 12dB (taking the noise down to 33dB) and will remove any possible underdamping of the headphones. It also reduces the potential power to only 2mW, but that would be 121dB at the 118dB/mw rating, which is still serious overkill. These resistors could be easily built into a suitable homemade adapter.

These are very sensitive phones; the range of sensitivities I have on hand is 84 to 120dB, average about 98dB/mW.

Paul Joppa


Offline Jim R.

  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 2194
  • Blind Bottlehead
Reply #19 on: August 21, 2012, 08:58:51 AM
Todd,

Wonder if a copper foil lining of the inside of the wood frame and then grounded to the earth terminal on the AC inlet will do anything?  Plan to try this myself.

-- Jim

Jim Rebman -- recovering audiophile

Equitech balanced power; uRendu, USB processor -> Musette DAC -> 5670 tube buffer -> Finale Audio F138 FFX -> Cain and Cain Abbys near-field).

s.e.x. 2.1 under construction.  Want list: Stereomour II

All ICs homemade (speaker and power next)


Offline earwaxxer

  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 1336
Reply #20 on: August 21, 2012, 02:47:05 PM
All right, I have to respond to this because I keep seeing it as 'new', and my debased thoughts have got the best of me! Are you, by any chance that couple in the apartment, oh some 25yrs ago, next to mine when I was living with my current wife, who liked to do the noisy 'wammer jammer' all night long and make me fell like a looser! I didnt appreciate it! I like noisy sex as much as the next guy, but that was like 'rubbing it in'!

Yours - Eric

Eric
Emotiva XPA-2, Magnepan MMG (mod), Quickie (mod), JRiver, Wyrd4sound uLink, Schiit Gungnir, JPS Digital power cord, MIT power cord, JPS Labs ultraconductor wire throughout, HSU sub. powered by Crown.


Offline Noskipallwd

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
    • Posts: 353
Reply #21 on: August 21, 2012, 04:02:00 PM
Wow, those JH monitors are some expensive IEMs. Do you prefer listening with IEMs?, if not sell them and buy some HD-800s. Sorry, I know that is not a solution to your problem, I'm guessing the JH Audios are custom fit. My kit should be here soon, I have a surplus of DH Labs White lightning coax. The specs are similar to the Belden cable, maybe I will give it a try. Oh, Eric since you went there! Use a pillow.

Cheers,
Shawn

Shawn Prigmore


Offline Todd R

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 135
Reply #22 on: August 22, 2012, 04:56:28 AM
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Paul, I guess I'll have to add resistors to the JH Audio cable, or better still make an adapter for when I use them with the SEX amp. That in combination with the impedance board may knock it down to an acceptable level. I tried resistors before, but ended up loosing a lot of the musical details, but that was in conjunction with a long extension cable, so...

Shawn,
The IEM's are custom molded (mine forever) and they are pretty awesome. I usually use them at the computer or when traveling with a RSA portable amp, but sometimes I like to use them on the big system with the SEX amp.
 
I have tried the HD-800's. Way too bright for me. They only lasted 10 seconds on the wife's head before she tore them off and never touched them again  :o



Offline Noskipallwd

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
    • Posts: 353
Reply #23 on: August 22, 2012, 02:52:48 PM
Todd, you're not the first to mention the 800s are too bright. I don't find them bright at all, but I am used to the HD650s, which are anything but bright. Which RSA amp do you own? I am looking for a new portable amp, and RSAs are on the list.

Cheers,
Shawn

Shawn Prigmore


Offline Todd R

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 135
Reply #24 on: August 22, 2012, 03:20:38 PM
Shawn,
I had 650's as well until I heard Hifiman HE-500 and there was no going back. SEX 2.1 has plenty of power to run them, which is why I built it.

Got the SR-71B from Ray. All his amps are good and share a similar sound, but mine has the most power, balanced in put & output, and built in Lithium battery. Also, I prefer the layout with the input on the rear and the output on the front. ALO's new RX3 is supposed to be real good too as is the TTVJ slim.

Hey Doc, how about portable amps? That could be fun to build.



Offline Noskipallwd

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
    • Posts: 353
Reply #25 on: August 22, 2012, 11:07:38 PM
Todd, thnx for the info on the SR-71, I am considering buying the HE-400s, I really enjoyed them when I had a chance to listen for a short period of time. The 500s are little too much for another set of phones for me.
Hey Doc, how about portable amps? That could be fun to build.
I second that, something similar to the ALO Continental, but a little less expensive though.

Cheers,
Shawn

Shawn Prigmore


Offline Doc B.

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 9555
    • Bottlehead
Reply #26 on: August 23, 2012, 04:52:52 AM
At the moment I'm not ready to compromise by doing a hybrid design. Maybe down the road we can come up with a hybrid design that I would find acceptable. In the meantime we are looking into a few things that might eventually work into a portable amp.

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
President For Life
Bottlehead Corp.


Offline Noskipallwd

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
    • Posts: 353
Reply #27 on: August 23, 2012, 06:32:00 AM
Doc, I am very sorry to hear about your mother, you and yours have my sincere condolences. On a much less important note, I agree a hybrid would be Sort of a cop-out. Although, if anyone can make an all tube portable amp work, it's Bottlehead. Take care.

Shawn

Shawn Prigmore


Offline Todd R

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 135
Reply #28 on: December 31, 2012, 05:53:03 AM
Update to an old thread  ;D
Per Doc's suggestion, I replaced the wires from the impedance board to the headphone jacks with shielded wire.
I remembered I had some Cardas 4X24 with shield wire, so I used 3 of the 4 wires (Pos, Neg, Ground).
Once I had it all connected, the amp was a lot quieter with the sensitive headphones.
The Sennheiser Momentum phones were silent (110db, 18 ohm). The JH Audio 13's still picked up some noise but not as much (116db, 28 ohm).
Connecting the shield at the common ground, terminal 23 didn't make any difference, but I left it connected anyway.



Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19369
Reply #29 on: December 31, 2012, 06:35:51 AM
Hello Todd,

Thank you for reporting back with your results.  It's experiments like these (where we know the outcome) that influence the construction of future kits.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man