voltage check problem with PJCCS

denti alligator · 4341

« previous next »
Pages: 1   Go Down

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline denti alligator

  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 1156
on: September 28, 2012, 02:58:49 PM
I'm getting 15V at A5 and 30V at B5.  What's gone wrong??

Yep, right channel isn't working. Can't seem to find where I went wrong.
« Last Edit: September 28, 2012, 03:12:37 PM by denti alligator »

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable

Offline denti alligator

  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 1156
Reply #1 on: September 28, 2012, 03:30:21 PM
Never mind! I had one of the rectifier diodes in wrong. But in trying to remove it I snapped it in two.  >:(

So I just soldered the f&%#er back together ... turned it around, checked the voltages: everything fine. Turned it on, and yes, it works. Should I have a new diode sent from BH or is what I did kosher?
« Last Edit: September 28, 2012, 03:53:51 PM by denti alligator »

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable

Offline Jim R.

  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 2194
  • Blind Bottlehead
Reply #2 on: September 29, 2012, 05:41:07 AM
Sam,

You soldered a broken diode back together and it worked?  That's amazing -- bet you can't do that again :-).  Yes, I'd definitely get a replacement.  It would be interesting to know how long that repaired diode will last, but I'm guessing it won't be long.

-- Now let's see you do that with a microprocessor chip!

-- Jim

Jim Rebman -- recovering audiophile

Equitech balanced power; uRendu, USB processor -> Musette DAC -> 5670 tube buffer -> Finale Audio F138 FFX -> Cain and Cain Abbys near-field).

s.e.x. 2.1 under construction.  Want list: Stereomour II

All ICs homemade (speaker and power next)

Offline denti alligator

  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 1156
Reply #3 on: September 29, 2012, 06:27:41 AM
Yeah, I was sure it wouldn't work. Not only did it snap in two, I lost part of the bottom half, so really it's only a half-diode with a blob of solder.  :D

I was sure it wouldn't work. Nice to be surprised! We'll see how long it lasts. In the meantime, I've put in a request for replacement with Queen Eileen.

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable

Offline Irie Roover

  • Newbie
  • *
    • Posts: 6
Reply #4 on: October 13, 2012, 06:02:43 AM
Question,,
I seem to have a similar problem, but my voltage readings are on the A6 15v. & B6 32v.
which rectifier did I mess up? Any suggestion would greatly be appriciated.
Thx



Offline Paul Joppa

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 5840
Reply #5 on: October 13, 2012, 06:55:25 AM
Quote from: Irie Roover on October 13, 2012, 06:02:43 AM
...
which rectifier did I mess up?
The one on the B side  :^)

You may have the D-cells reversed - see the sticky top of this forum

Paul Joppa

Offline Irie Roover

  • Newbie
  • *
    • Posts: 6
Reply #6 on: October 13, 2012, 07:15:23 AM
I reversed the d cell and got A6 to put out 22v and the B6 is still at 32v.
Where do you think I should look next?


Offline Irie Roover

  • Newbie
  • *
    • Posts: 6
Reply #7 on: October 13, 2012, 08:16:38 AM
Looking a little deeper, I measured my MJE 350 transistor [ B side ] and found the outside poles measure 33v and the centre pole measures 22v. What next do think? Connect the red wire to the outside pole?


Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19790
Reply #8 on: October 13, 2012, 08:51:20 AM
Resolder the center leg of the MJE350 on the offending side.

The middle leg and the case are tied together, and that connection likes to dissipate a lot of heat during soldering and cause problems down the road.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man

Offline Irie Roover

  • Newbie
  • *
    • Posts: 6
Reply #9 on: October 13, 2012, 09:00:05 AM
Thank you very much, I will try it now!


Offline Irie Roover

  • Newbie
  • *
    • Posts: 6
Reply #10 on: October 13, 2012, 01:11:50 PM
Unfortunately the MJE 350 resistor (middle post)will not exceed 23 v after resolding.
I may need to order another resistor and replace it!



Offline Paul Joppa

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 5840
Reply #11 on: October 13, 2012, 05:36:39 PM
Middle post is the output of the current source, connected to the plate of the tube. 22 volts is excellent; it should be about 2/3 of the battery voltage.

Paul Joppa

Offline Irie Roover

  • Newbie
  • *
    • Posts: 6
Reply #12 on: October 13, 2012, 06:16:58 PM
So, when I measure volts at B6 I am to high at 33 v. When I power it on the right side is way loader than the left. When I measure the MJE 350 on side it's output is still high at 33v.
Any suggestions to get both channels even?


Offline Paul Joppa

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 5840
Reply #13 on: October 14, 2012, 02:57:16 PM
B6 should connect to the middle lead of the MJE350 transistor. Apparently it does not, since the transistor is at 22 volts and B6 is at 33 volts.

Paul Joppa

Pages: 1   Go Up
« previous next »