The over-done how do I solder question.

[rockdrummer]

Hello everyone.  I am excited about the better weather here in Minnesota because I can get back out to the garage and finish some speaker projects and then get onto my Stereomour!! 

Anyway, I have searched.  I also know the answer must be around somewhere, and maybe I even read it, but just didn't understand it.  I know my 30 watt pencil iron should be sufficient for soldering.  But when I use it, I think I'm doing it wrong.  Bad technique.  So the soldering iron is supposed to heat up the component so solder flows.  After tinning, I find my 30 watt isn't heating up enough to melt or flow the solder onto solid or stranded practice wire. 

I assume I'm supposed to tin, then heat a moment, then solder.  I'm having to really glob the solder into place with the tip of the iron.  It never seems to flow.  If I wait for it to get hot, I start to melt the jacket of the wire. 

I know I'm making a mistake here.  I am going to get a weller 40 watt soldering station to hopefully make this easier.  But after practice, I don't always have shiny joints.  I seem to not "flow" the solder very well. 

Does the solder need to hit the tip first ALWAYS?  Then I should let it flow into the joint?  Because I'm trying that, and it isn't happening easily.  The impression I first got when reading up on soldering was that the parts heat, so that when solder touches it, it melts immediately.  not happening that way. 

I'm not starting to solder the kit until I really know what I'm doing, i'm having fun practicing and looking at all the little parts, but I'm getting frustrated because it looks like I'm soldering with a silver crayola crayon.  And it looks like my 7 year old daughter did it.  ha ha ha ha ha.

Again, I searched and found tips for soldering, but I'm just not getting it.

Ben

[Jim R.]

Hi Ben,

For starters, the 30 watt iron maybe partially to blame -- the 40 watt weller is a great move.

Also, couple of things -- make sure the parts to be soldered are clean, and also clean the tip of the iron frequently.

The tip of the iron should be somewhat shiny, not dull, and you can use either a damp sponge, or if it's really oxidized badly, you can try plunging the tip into some bronze wool -- the bronze is softenough that it won't scratch and erode the tip.  When the tip is nice and shiny, addd a bit of solder to it to tin it, and also to have a tiny bit of excess that will make contact with the parts to be soldered and heat them much faster -- the tiny blob of solder transfers more of the heat to the joint more uniformly and more quickly.  Then touch the solder to the joint, and it should flow right on.  Count to three once it starts to flow and then remove the iron tip and then don't let anything move until the solder fully hardens.  It's quick, but will take longer with larger parts that hold more heat., and silver is another story altogether -- but you're not soldering solid silver.

Also make sure you have a flux or rosin core solder.  If you do and this is still happening, you might be able to help the 30 watt iron out a bit by using some paste flux, but only apply this to the parts to be soldered, not the iron itself.

Give these things a try and if things are still not working, just wait until the 40 watt iron arrives.  Also, the type of point on the soldering iron can make a difference, but try these things first.

Hope this helps,

Jim

[Paul Joppa]

Check that you are using leaded solder for electronics. That is usually 60/40 or 63/37 tin/lead mix, and has usually a mild rosin-core flux. Any lead-free solder, or solder containing silver or copper, will have a higher melting point making it more difficult to solder and requiring a higher temperature.

[rockdrummer]

Thanks for the replies.  I am going to get that soldering station this weekend.  And the solder is leaded 60/40.  I know there is an "art" to it.  I am so excited to be on the cusp of great audio sound.  I have been waiting literally for years to get this.  Since I heard a Krell KAV 150 driving some martin logans.  And I really appreciate how everyone has such helpful advice and helpful attitudes.

Thanks again everybody.
Ben

[RPMac]

Make sure your equipment is working properly. If the tip doesn't heat up quickly, loosen it and retighten it. Especially a problem if you keep your irons where they are exposed to temp and humidity changes.

Clean metal always works better. If solder melts and falls off, you have a cleanliness problem. Flux paste should help, but I haven't never used any.

Bigger metal takes more to heat. Make sure your iron is in good contact with the largest metal in the joint. Larger solder takes more to heat or to put it another way, larger solder will cool your joint quicker. I like .032 dia. much easier to work with than .050 dia. solder.

Pencil iron can only go so big. I find that joining two 18 awg wires or larger needs a gun are bigger iron. In electronic, you always have to worry about damaging components. A gun can't work for everything...a good solder joint on a damaged component doesn't work.

I like to use a wet tip, but not dripping. Put the tip to the joint for a few seconds, then touch the small solder between the tip and the metal...just enough for heat transfer. When you see the solder flow, add solder touching the metal until all is connected.

Practice with 30 awg magnet wire. Small enough to heat quickly and give you practice cleaning metal. An electric motor rewind shop will give you a small amount of spent wire to practice with.

Hope some of this helps.
If I'm wrong on anything, the more experienced can correct it.

[Chris]

Paul, Do you think all the hype i read about silver solder sounding better is a load of rubbish in your experience??? I can imagine it may be....

[Paul Joppa]

Paul, Do you think all the hype i read about silver solder sounding better is a load of rubbish in your experience??? I can imagine it may be....

No idea. I prefer a good joint to taking my chances with a poor joint of potentially better solder, so I've never even tried to use silver solder. But I'm generally more interested in bang-for-the-buck than in pursuit of perfection no matter the cost. It's an engineer thing ...  :^)

That's just my personal preference; clearly lead-free is the environmentally responsible thing, and what we will all be doing eventually. It's especially important in plumbing! Silver solders still have some problems in electronics, especially the development of whiskers. I regard it as an immature technology at this point.

[Chris]

Thank you... Yes, I agree with the "quality" joint being the important thing.... Kester seems to usually get recommended alot.... As does Cardas..