Driver tube plate voltage setting

pdxgrampa · 2817

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Offline pdxgrampa

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on: March 04, 2013, 06:24:56 AM
Dan,Paul or Paul:
Will the driver tube plate voltage need to be adjusted when you change the driver tube?

Greg
Music Hall 5.1SE,EROS. OPPO 980HD, Music Hall 25.3 Dac. BeePre/BeeQuiet. Paramount V1.1 300B,Orca Deluxe W/ Subs/SPA250s.Stereomour W/Orca Deluxe. Crack W/Speeball(2) .Beyerdynamic 990s.Crackheadphone.


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #1 on: March 05, 2013, 06:36:06 AM
It's probably not a bad idea to double check, but if you are running 300B's, the check is probably not necessary, but I would strongly recommend it with the 2A3 variant.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

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Offline Jim R.

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Reply #2 on: March 05, 2013, 02:42:28 PM
A somewhat related question...

As I'm going to fabricate new top plates for mine, how many tip jack test points would it be useful to have accessible from the top, and how many trimpots?

Thanks,

Jim

Jim Rebman -- recovering audiophile

Equitech balanced power; uRendu, USB processor -> Musette DAC -> 5670 tube buffer -> Finale Audio F138 FFX -> Cain and Cain Abbys near-field).

s.e.x. 2.1 under construction.  Want list: Stereomour II

All ICs homemade (speaker and power next)


Offline Paul Joppa

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Reply #3 on: March 05, 2013, 05:35:19 PM
A somewhat related question...

As I'm going to fabricate new top plates for mine, how many tip jack test points would it be useful to have accessible from the top, and how many trimpots?

Thanks,

Jim
How fussy do you want to get?  OK, here's my list of all the things I can think of that might want checking:

1) Driver plate voltage, one test point and one trimmer. This calls for making a remote trimmer, off the PC board. It is wired as a variable resistor so only two wires are needed, but do shield it, it feeds the driver cathode which is a noise-sensitive point. In another thread I suggested a small extra resistor to make the test point one of low voltage and impedance - I think Grainger and Paully were involved. This enables you to roll tubes without inverting the amp to trim the voltages. Critical for 2A3 direct coupled operation, less so for 300B cap coupling but if you want to get really accurate tube comparisons without other influences ...

2) Input level control. I have long thought this should be placed symmetrically with the hum pot, but next to the driver tube. There is no useful test point, but repeatability is an important consideration. Personally, I'd go for 6dB in 1/2 dB steps, with a fixed series resistor to optimize the system gain structure if needed. This allows balancing the channels for variations in individual tube gain (when rolling tubes for instance). Unfortunately, we keep finding that quality of attenuators is audible, so choosing the form and brand is an open question still.

3) Test point for output tube cathode voltage. A reduction in this voltage indicates aging of the tube and loss of emission. Note that with the direct-coupled 2A3, this voltage will vary much less, and the voltage should be compared to the driver plate voltage in 1) above to derive a useful measure of tube aging.

4) I would install a switch to adjust the output impedance. For the OT-2, this can be a 2-pole 3-throw; I've used a 4-pole 3-throw and paralleled each section to obtain a lower switch resistance and greater switch reliability.

5) If you have an adjustable AC power voltage, some means of assuring that the applied voltage is close to 120vAC would assure operation as close as possible to the design condition. Most tubes will operate reasonably well at +/- 10%, but the better ones will have more optimal operation and lifetime if you can stay within 5%. EML says 4% for filament voltage.

For the seriously OCD, all the tube pin voltages mentioned in the manual could be checked before every listening session. This paragraph is intended to be funny, and is by no means a slur upon our OCD brothers and sisters - we are all misaligned in some way or another.  :^)

Paul Joppa


Offline Jim R.

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Reply #4 on: March 06, 2013, 04:28:25 AM
Thanks Paul,

I'm mainly interested in the driver tube setting as I will be building this amp for 2a3s only, and I'd probably use two test points -- one for a ground reference point.

As for the other things, well, as you say, switches do have sonic impact and since this will be built and optimized for one preamp and one pair of speakers, I probably don't need all the other stuff in there -- I can set those things ith resistors if needed, and I also have no real need for switching output impedances.  But thanks for all the suggestions -- if I were building a swiss army amp for demo purposes or expected to use it with many different preamps and speakers, I'd probably do at least some of these.

I'll go look up pauly's thread.

-- Jim

Jim Rebman -- recovering audiophile

Equitech balanced power; uRendu, USB processor -> Musette DAC -> 5670 tube buffer -> Finale Audio F138 FFX -> Cain and Cain Abbys near-field).

s.e.x. 2.1 under construction.  Want list: Stereomour II

All ICs homemade (speaker and power next)