New Quickie - no go.

[Srclose]

Hi,

New to the forum and to Bottlehead.  Just received the 1.1 kit and completed this weekend.  I'm not getting proper readings and there is no sound.  I did disregard one instruction.  On page 20, the fourth paragraph reads "Attach and solder one end to pin B6" and I connected to "B2" since that corresponded to the photo and the connection for side A.  Also, I added a second set of RCA outputs by connecting the ground lugs together and the center pins of side A together and the center pins of side B together.  Readings follow:

A1, B1 are open line
A3 - 13 K-ohm, B3 - 12.4 K-ohm
A7, B7 are open line
4 - 1.07 K-ohm, 9 - 1.07 K-ohm

1 - 30V, 5 - 0V
2 - 38V, 6 - 30V
4 - 2.1V, 9 - 2.2V
5 - 0V, 10 - 0V

Rotary B - 0V
Rotary C - 3.2V

I did go over the wiring diagram again and things look right.  What direction should I go in?

Thanks for any input.

Stephen

[Jim R.]

First thing I'd do is remove the extra wires for the thirrd set of inputs -- you can't do this without a switch, and one that is different from what is supplied with the kit.

After you do that give it another try and let us know what happens.

HTH,

Jim

[Srclose]

That was a second set of outputs, not additional inputs.  If the output ground lugs are connected and the center pins connected, I thought that would parallel the outputs, and not be a problem??

[galyons]

That was a second set of outputs, not additional inputs.  If the output ground lugs are connected and the center pins connected, I thought that would parallel the outputs, and not be a problem??

I did that on mine.  Np problems!!! Jim is correct, if it had been inputs!

Cheers,
Geary

[Paul Birkeland]

"Attach and solder one end to pin B6" and I connected to "B2" since that corresponded to the photo and the connection for side A. 

B2 and B6 are internally connected, and this connection scheme was done to aid in the installation of the PJCCS.

It looks like there is a typo in the voltage checks, 1 and 6 are a pair that should be 29V, while 2 and 7 should be 38V. 

Since 1 and 6 measure less than 2 and 7, the tubes are functioning properly and will amplify signal.

I would check the wiring of the inputs to be sure you aren't shorting the signal to ground, then double check the output wiring to be sure there aren't issues there.  Since you have ~13K at the input of the tube, I would imagine the volume pot is connected correctly, so I'd be looking extra hard at the outputs.

[Jim R.]

Hi Stephen,

So sorry about that -- don't know why I thought you said inputs instead of outputs.

Anyway, glad Geary and Paul could get you on the right track and welcome to the bh forum!

-- Jim

[underdawg]

the best way to add second out is put 100 ohm resistor or even a zener diode possible to isolate the two outputs from each other other wise both amps will see each other if directly paralleled, some amps are ok that way some are not.

[Srclose]

Thanks Jim, Paul, Geary and Dawg.  After work tonight, maybe I can get this straightened out. 

[4krow]

Aha! I thought that I had seen resistors between dual outputs. Kinda made me wonder about how to separate the outputs until I saw these. Now you mention a Zener diode. Doesn't matter which direction it faces does it?

[Paul Joppa]

Don't use a diode, zener or not, unless it has a parallel low-value resistor (1000 ohms or less?), a diode won't conduct in either direction.

There are a few things that can go wrong if two different devices have their inputs paralleled. I think this is kind of rare these days. It's kind of like those pesky 120-ohm headphone resistors, sometimes the resistor makes sense, sometimes it doesn't. I believe in standards, I've even helped write some, but it's a mighty lonely position  :^)

[underdawg]

as stated above I have used a diode in the past but with a resistor i think it was 1k actually - there is technical name for that type of circuit but I forget. I have used just the resistor only before on  preamps when adding second outs also. I usually try it both was and pick the better sounding solution. I forget the value to use if your doing the resistor only, google it and you should see something on it.

[Srclose]

Finally got back to work.  Disconnected the second set of outputs, then checked all the wiring again.  Obviously missing something.  A1B1A7B7=OL, A3B3=13Kohm, 4=1.07Kohm, 9=1.07Kohm, and voltages:  1 and 6 = 30, 2 and 7 = 38, 4 and 9 = 2, 5 and 10 = 0, B = 0, C = 3. 

[Paul Joppa]

If A1 and A5 read infinite resistance to ground, while terminals 4 and 9 read 1K, then either A5, B5 are not connected to 4,9 or the tube is missing. But the other tube voltages are correct, so the tube is wired correctly and (as noted before) functioning correctly.

Therefor there must be something wrong in either the input wiring or the output wiring.

A3-B3 readint 13K is reasonable; that should vary with the volume control setting. If so then the volume control wiring is correct, leaving only the connection between the RCA jacks and the volume control on the input side.

On the output side, if the capacitor is connected on one end to tube pins 2-4-6 and to the RCA jack on the other end, you should get signal.

I probably shouldn't post this late, so apologies - that's all I can see right now.

[Srclose]

Called this afternoon and cleared up some of the confusion.  For one, when the manual referenced A1 for a resistance check, I took that to be tube pin A1 instead of terminal strip 1.  First kit in 40 years, so I've got a bit to learn.  Also, I think I have a hybrid manual with a combination of new and old information.  So, with the new check information, I have proper resistances on all points.  All of the voltages check out except for Rotary B, which is zero instead of ~4.  Hopefully, this pinpoints the problem better. 

[Srclose]

New Quickie - now going.  MUSIC!!!!!!