quick LED question

moviedave · 3843

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Offline moviedave

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on: April 16, 2013, 09:40:50 AM
Which small PC board on the speedball is connected to the LED going from the center pin to A3?



Online Paul Birkeland

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Reply #1 on: April 16, 2013, 04:25:00 PM
Neither.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

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Offline moviedave

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Reply #2 on: April 16, 2013, 05:12:20 PM
The reason I asked is that is I installed the speedball and the LED connected to A8 didn't light up.  I unsoldered the small PCB boards and checked my work, and everything looked fine.  I put them back but swapped the which sides I soldered the boards onto.  After doing that, the LED on A3 didn't light up.  I will keep working.



Online Paul Birkeland

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Reply #3 on: April 16, 2013, 05:23:16 PM
Always start with measuring voltages, the LED on A8 is indeed related to one of the smaller green PC boards.  Measuring the voltages at terminals 1, 2, 4, and 5 will tell us a lot about what's going on (and likely problems at terminals 6, 7, 9, and 10).

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline moviedave

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Reply #4 on: April 18, 2013, 10:21:14 AM
Voltages were as follows

1. 85
2. 205
3. 0
4. 205
5. 0
6. 0
7. 124
8. 0
9. 94
10. 0

2 and 4 are a little on the high side, but the biggest issues are terminal 5 reading 0 and terminal 7 reading 124.



Online Paul Birkeland

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Reply #5 on: April 18, 2013, 11:13:45 AM
You're not getting voltage out of one of the small green C4S boards, that is causing the rest of the problems.  Measure the metal patch on each MJE350.  When you find the one that is zero, reheat the solder joint on the center leg of that transistor.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline moviedave

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Reply #6 on: April 19, 2013, 10:07:05 AM
Are you sure that has to be the problem?  I did as you said, and found the thingy that had a zero voltage reading and resoldered the center leg.  It did not help.  Anything else that could be the source of the problem?



Online Paul Birkeland

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Reply #7 on: April 19, 2013, 10:08:58 AM
Measure the voltage at the "I" solder pad on each small green board, they should be the same.

Also verify that the 2n2907's and 2n2222a's are in the correct places.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline moviedave

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Reply #8 on: April 19, 2013, 12:18:23 PM
The voltages are the same at the "I"'.  I will recheck my solder joints again.  I installed the speedball and had it working.  I later reverted it to stock to check the difference in how it sounded.  Deciding I liked it better with the speedball, I am putting it back.  I know everthing is where it should be on the board.  I just need to find out where the goof is.  Thanks for the help.



Online Paul Birkeland

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Reply #9 on: April 19, 2013, 01:43:59 PM
Ah, OK, that is very helpful information.

You should be able to nail down that small green PC board.  Do note that a loose black wire on that board could cause the same problem.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline moviedave

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Reply #10 on: April 20, 2013, 06:46:08 PM
Solved that problem.  Re-soldered all my joints.  Now, I seem to have a new one.  Everything now has a reading, but a few are too high.

2. 201
4. 201
7. 123
9. 136
13. 201
15. 214
b2. 201
b3. 122
b5. 201
b6. 135

Any advice for this?  They seem to be higher in pairs.



Online Paul Birkeland

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Reply #11 on: April 21, 2013, 07:33:16 AM
What are terminals 1 and 5 reading now?  These have a lot of control over how the rest fall into line.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline moviedave

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Reply #12 on: April 21, 2013, 08:02:31 AM
1. 83
5. 78

I didn't include them as they were well within the acceptable range, but what do I know.



Online Paul Birkeland

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Reply #13 on: April 21, 2013, 08:57:32 AM
You're in operating range, I would go ahead and give her a listen.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline moviedave

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Reply #14 on: April 22, 2013, 01:52:49 AM
Only getting a hum from the left channel.  Where to go from here?