Can't get Speedball to stay stable.

danosol · 6652

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Offline danosol

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on: May 31, 2013, 07:00:48 PM
Just went to Bottlehead today and got a new B board and the fixings and it was working fine when I left. I get it home and it works for about two songs and then I hear this static noise and swooshing.  So I lower the volume all the way and power down and the headphones get a loud pop.  The first time it did this the LED's on the B board stopped working.  I heated all the connections with the iron and thought i had it fixed the second time but the same static and swooshing.  This time when I turned it off I still got the pop but LED's are still on.

Help!



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #1 on: May 31, 2013, 07:05:29 PM
Triple check those 2.49K resistors on the headphone jack, just to be safe.

You could get popping and swooshing from something heating up and misbehaving, did any of this occur before installing the Speedball?  Knowing that Doc B. built the board (with a fresh tip in the iron I noticed), I might suspect a 12AU7 being a little fussy.  I'd recommend leaving the Crack on overnight with no headphones plugged in to let the tube cook a bit, that may end up remedying the problem on its own.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline danosol

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Reply #2 on: May 31, 2013, 07:12:56 PM
No it sounded great and no issues pre speedball, but I didn't have it that way for long.  I have no problem leaving it o over night but if the LED's go out on the B board and the amp is on all night will that be a problem?

Could a bad 12AU7 cause those issues?



Offline danosol

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Reply #3 on: May 31, 2013, 07:39:55 PM
Went back and checked the 2.4k resistors and noticed the LED's on the B board went out.  I powered down and reheated the two 2.4K resistors and when I powered the Crack back on the LED's were back on.

Went back and checked the LED's again and they were out on the B board again.  Powered it up a minute later and they went on again.  I think you are right.  Something is heating up and causing the LED's to go out.  But what?
« Last Edit: May 31, 2013, 07:44:34 PM by danosol »



Offline danosol

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Reply #4 on: June 01, 2013, 09:21:56 AM
Anyone out there?

Fired it up this morning and lights went on and out a few moments later.  I tried 2 other 12AU7 tubes and nothing different.

Help!



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #5 on: June 01, 2013, 11:21:54 AM
What are the voltages at 1 and 5 when the lights go out?

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline danosol

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Reply #6 on: June 01, 2013, 11:41:11 AM
87.3 at 1 & 163 at 5



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #7 on: June 01, 2013, 11:50:33 AM
Ok, on the side with 165V, what is the voltage at "I" on the small PC board?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline danosol

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Reply #8 on: June 01, 2013, 12:11:21 PM
170



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #9 on: June 01, 2013, 04:49:41 PM
OK, this narrows the potential issues down to:

1.  LED connection/functionality (shouldn't be a problem since the amp was working pre-Speedball).
2.  A poor connection from the wire leaving the center lug of the volume control to that particular channel (worth double checking).
3.  Issues within the C4S itself.  I would quadruple check the ground connection to the board.
4.  Issues with the wire leaving the "O" pad on the PCB, and heading to the 12AU7 (same as #2, just give it a good look over).

You can always do the chopstick test, find a wood or all plastic poking implement, then poke each transistor, LED, resistor, and wire leaving the offending PC board while the amp is running and the LED's are out.  At some point, you will poke the right part and it will reveal itself as the problem.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline danosol

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Reply #10 on: June 01, 2013, 06:37:18 PM
Well I heated up the first LED again and pushed it a bit away from the board and they both lit up.  Gonna leave it on for a bit and see what happens and I'll report back.



Offline danosol

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Reply #11 on: June 01, 2013, 09:18:50 PM
2 plus hours of listening later and no dropouts.  Crossing fingers but I think getting the LED a bit off the board helped.  In the process of doing this I decided to rewire transformer terminal 4 to 22 and then move it back to terminal 14U.  In the process I accidentally burned a wire on the power socket (No Prob) when I went to put a new wire there it wouldn't take solder and I ended up melting the tab in to the socket a bit.  It all works, but would you guys sent me a new power socket.  I would sure appreciate it.
« Last Edit: June 01, 2013, 10:05:21 PM by danosol »



Offline Grainger49

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Reply #12 on: June 02, 2013, 02:17:46 AM
dan...

Hang in there.  Those LEDs are physically delicate but I soldered and resondered my old C4S board LEDs almost a dozen times, seriously.  I ended up putting in current HLPM 6000 LEDs which were swapped a number of times themselves.  My problem was I had the input and output wires swapped.

Just be patient.



Offline danosol

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Reply #13 on: June 02, 2013, 06:57:39 AM
I wish I could have done that with the previous board.  I could have avoided a lot of headaches.



Offline danosol

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Reply #14 on: June 04, 2013, 07:08:48 PM
Well after a day of not using the Crack I fired it up and the LED's went out again >:(.  This is getting old fast.  Super disappointing.  I just want to listen to some music!