Cable repair query

denti alligator · 9979

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Offline denti alligator

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on: December 20, 2013, 07:29:10 AM
The cable near the plug on my Cardas Sennheiser cable has split, slightly, exposing the wiring, which is also slightly broken. Some scratchiness on this ear. What's the best fix? If I solder, I risk melting the plastic covering. I could try dripping some solder on, but that won't create a secure bond. Then how to seal? I only have epoxy lying about.

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline galyons

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Reply #1 on: December 20, 2013, 07:47:20 AM
If it were my cable, I would rewire the plug.  If the plug is encased in plastic, invest in a new high quality plug.  Strip the wires back, solder to plug tabs and the nicely shrink wrap for appearance and strain relief.  Be sure to thread the shrink wrap over the able before soldering.

Cheers,
Geary

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Offline denti alligator

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Reply #2 on: December 20, 2013, 07:50:59 AM
Yeah, I considers this, but it's such a pain to do. The plastic of the plugs get so soft with even the slightest heat. And I've yet to figure out the best way to shrink over the plug without a gap.

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline mcandmar

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Reply #3 on: December 20, 2013, 07:59:58 AM
Can you show us a pic?   Any Cardas cables i have seen just had a length of heat shrink over the connectors. Basically cut the heatshrink off, unsolder the cable, snip an inch or two off the end to remove the faulty bit, slide on a bit of headshrink and resolder the connector.

M.McCandless


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #4 on: December 20, 2013, 08:02:25 AM
I would have Cardas repair it.  I'm sure they can nibble a little off and reterminate it for you.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline denti alligator

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Reply #5 on: December 20, 2013, 08:11:24 AM
Didn't buy it from them, so I can't do that without probably paying too much. The plug itself is fine, actually. It's the wire a few millimeters fromt e plug that's a problem. I'll try taking a pic.
« Last Edit: December 20, 2013, 08:13:48 AM by denti alligator »

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline denti alligator

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Reply #6 on: December 21, 2013, 05:50:13 AM
Any tips before I go at this?  I have two extra plugs, but I'd rather save these for another cable I made that needs end plugs. The plugs on the Cardas are fine, just this little bit of wire exposed. I was thinking of soldering it and adding epoxy. If that ruins it, I guess I can always re-terminate the cable with the plugs I have.

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline Grainger49

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Reply #7 on: December 21, 2013, 05:58:30 AM
After the repair you can get some liquid tape to cover and insulate the repaired wires.



Offline denti alligator

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Reply #8 on: December 21, 2013, 06:00:15 AM
What's liquid tape?

How do I solder this without melting the existing insulation and messing it up?

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline Grainger49

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Reply #9 on: December 21, 2013, 06:36:13 AM
Sam,

They used to sell it at Radio Shack.  They might have it at MCM Electronics.  Give them a call, (888) 235-4692.  There are sales associated standing by to help you.

As for the soldering job itself, be quick is the only advice I can give.  Personally, I wouldn't take it on.



Offline STURMJ

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Reply #10 on: December 21, 2013, 08:50:30 AM
If the wires are not bare, I would just try to fix the outer casing.  Try some silicone, or urethane gel (shoe goo), then, if you can, heat-shrink over the fix.  If the wires are bare, you need to clip off the end and start over.  I have used fine teflon tubing to protect the wires.
http://www.partsconnexion.com/tubing_teflon.html
just clip tiny lengths for each wire and put that over the wires before soldering. If the insulation melts the teflon will still be intact and insulate them. But your going to need a good 1 1/4" of the stuff :)



Offline denti alligator

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Reply #11 on: December 21, 2013, 09:12:30 AM
Well, the wire isn't completely bare. There are a couple strands that have broken, but not all. Should I solder or re insulate.

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline STURMJ

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Reply #12 on: December 22, 2013, 05:34:38 AM
Sounds like you need to cut the cable above the break and start over.



audiophileboss

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Reply #13 on: December 22, 2013, 07:03:16 AM
Another option is getting cardas to repair it. I believe they forge the joints to the jack and if you solder it to another it will not sound quite the same.



Offline denti alligator

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Reply #14 on: December 22, 2013, 09:46:04 AM
I put a small drop of epoxy on it. Seems to be fine...

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable