Sexy-up the SEX?

[Karl5150]

While I wait for kit delivery, I wonder if anybody has "dress-up" ideas for the sides of the plate chokes?  I was thinking something like the transformer bell.
Thanks,
Karl5150

[mcandmar]

Only thing i did to mine was to sand the metal cover so it has a brushed metal finish to it.  I was planning to cut off the black plastic tabs but chickened out in the end as it would have left the edge of the coil windings exposed on one side, but i'm fairly sure they would have to be removed to fit any tip of cover onto them as they stick out at least 10mm.

Pics of my build (http://www.bottlehead.com/smf/index.php/topic,5252.0.html)

[Karl5150]

thanks mc,
I have seen the photos, nice and clean. It looks like the path I will take.

On another build aspect, I am not a headphone guy (yet?) and my plan is to use the S.E.X. to run my Fostex based OBs in my relativly small condo. If one were to omit the can-jack, it would free up some real estate under the hood.
Am I correct in thinking the binding posts would then be wired directly to the OTs?
Could one expect improved s/n etc. due to the shorter wire path?
How big of a pita would adding the jack later be if I changed my alleged mind?
Thanks again,
karl

[mcandmar]

I doubt it will make any significant difference, by wiring the transformers directly to the speaker binding posts will save having to route them around the tubes and their high voltage power lines so that may make them less prone to noise pickup.  Having said that i replaced all the output wiring with shielded cable and didn't notice any difference, and that was when using highly sensitive headphones.  Just dont forget to tie the grounds to chassis ground at some point as thats normally done with a jumper wire from the headphone socket.

Going back and wiring in the headphone jack at a later stage shouldn't be that big of a deal as its only four wires, but your wiring from the speaker posts will be too sort then.

[Paul Birkeland]

Could one expect improved s/n etc. due to the shorter wire path?
How big of a pita would adding the jack later be if I changed my alleged mind?

Remember, you're going to run 8-20 feet of speaker wire out of the amp to your speakers.  Getting rid of 6" inside the amplifier is pretty inconsequential.

Putting the jack in later isn't so fun. 

[Karl5150]

Thanks for the input and info. This is all conjecture at this point. I jumped right into my Reduction build, and while it looks fine and sounds great I want to have run as many ideas through my melon before commit to the S.E.X. build.
Karl

[Grainger49]

To put it in perspective, audio at speaker voltage will lose volume with 100' runs, but at line level (in your interconnects) it loses volume at 10' or less.

Be conservative with low level signals.  Most especially the phono leads.

[Karl5150]

Grainger,
1/2 m leads from the Reduction to the S.E.X. won't be the issue, it is the 4' plus stock leads on my RP1 (Upgraded to an Otofon Blue) that will be the weak link in that chain, correct?
At the risk of trying patience: cable upgrade suggestions, or just shorten lead and add good RCAs?

As for removal of the headphone jack, I plan on installing a ground post similar to the one on the Reduction and grounding it as the can-jack would be.

Thanks in advance for the anticipated info.,
Karl

[fullheadofnothing]

You can make cables shorter, but you can't make them longer. Sometimes you need your phono cable to be a bit longer so you can isolate your table from sources of interference. Moving your cartridge away from an amplifier's magnetic field will have a much more noticeable positive effect than the theoretical limitations of the cable. Rewiring a tonearm is a royal PITA; I tried it once, let's just say I don't use that arm anymore and leave it at that. Additionally, is this going to be the last table you own? The next owner will probably appreciate flexibility over audiophila nervosa.

Can't say I understand putting a ground post on the S.E.X. The headphone jack is isolated from the chassis plate. Why do you feel this is necessary?

Having the headphone jack is a really nice feature of this amp; I can plug in headphones and keep listening when circumstances require not making a lot of noise. Build it stock first, later on you can try wiring straight from the transformer to the binding post and see if it makes a difference.

[Grainger49]

Karl,

If your arm or table came with 4' leads I expect they are good.  But a generic in that length at 2.5mV... well, that is the lowest signal level in your system.