My new amps, on the theme of Paramount

johnsonad · 14335

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Offline johnsonad

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on: February 15, 2014, 02:52:12 PM
This project started with a pair of 300B's I couldn't use in the BeePre, the EML 300B mesh plate. They were too nice not to use so I decided to build an amp around them. I had previously owned Paramounts and knew how good the amp was but always thought it could be pushed a little more than the original design.  In corresponding with PJ over the years there where areas to explore without grossly changing the original design.  I'm not sure what to call them but they are on the theme of Paramount.

The chassis plate is built for mods sizing up at 12"x18".  There is plenty of room to work and room enough for mods in the future. The larger plate also allows for greater distance from the power supply (PS) to the output stage.  The top plate and the transformer bell ends were power coated black wrinkle in keeping with my other BH projects.  The PF cap was rattle can painted in a similar black wrinkle.  The bases are an extra long kiln dried maple giving them a smoked appearance with a semi gloss polyurethane finish. A big thanks to John at Harmonic Design Inc who made the bases and makes the BH bases. He really went the extra mile to get these right.

The power supply design is detailed in another thread, a simple CLC using the stock capacitance and a lot of induction (BH iron). The power supply ripple is less than 1mV according to sims.  The added inductance gives the needed voltage drop for the operating point.

I chose the 350v, -76v, 50mA, 5k operating point from the WE data sheet for a couple reasons. First, to hear a 300B with a 5k output transformer (OPT) and not just any but the Magnequest EXO-050.  It has the headroom to run the 300B into the lower bass without giving up the go and has one of Mikey's more advanced windings. Second, to take advantage of another piece of MQ iron, the Dowdy plate choke. In this amp they are gapped for 60mA with 80H of inductance.  And lastly, this operating point has one of the lowest second and third harmonic distortion measurements of those listed by WE and at 50mA, I'm ensured long life from the EML's.

The driver stage uses the soft start board with a simple mod for top mounted bias adjustment. The 10k pot is super glued to the top plate and wired to the board. The test point is also wired to the top plate via a tip jack. There is another tip jack at star ground (thank you Grainger).  In this configuration I'm able to swap driver tubes and quickly bias them without flipping the amps.  I started with the 5670 and listened to my entire stash of tubes (a dozen different pairs). There was just something missing and in looking over old posts and with the help once again from PB and PJ I switched to the 6SN7 and haven't looked back. There are other variants out there that I may try in the future but for now, I'm very happy with the 6SN7.

The output stage uses a MQ high nickel grid choke instead of the resistor. The cathode bypass resistor is a Caddock thick film mounted to a heat sink (PJ's idea). The cathode bypass capacitor is one that Steve (Ironbut) posted about and is 100uF film to possibly get a little more bass. There is a V-Cap Copper Teflon coupling cap and the parafeed (PF) capacitor is a Russian KBG PIO. The hum pot is a ten turn type and much easier to find the sweet spot with.  There is a switch between the PF cap and OPT to ground. It's set to ground as the amp warms up and after 30 seconds or so I switch it to the OPT to prevent magnetization.  Otherwise it's a nearly by the numbers Paramount build.

Operation-wise the circuit seems to be idling. The cathode bypass resistor heat sink stays at 100F and the power transformer is cool enough to continually hold. There are zero hot or warm spots on the chassis plate. 

So how do they sound? Well they sound great.  I've been listening to them for a couple of months now and have a good feel for them. Needless to say but these amps aren't going anywhere. 

More to follow in future posts and thank you again to everyone who has helped me with this build.





Aaron Johnson


Offline johnsonad

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Reply #1 on: February 15, 2014, 02:52:29 PM
Under the hood
« Last Edit: February 15, 2014, 02:55:31 PM by johnsonad »

Aaron Johnson


Offline johnsonad

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Reply #2 on: February 15, 2014, 02:52:47 PM
More under the hood
« Last Edit: February 15, 2014, 02:57:12 PM by johnsonad »

Aaron Johnson


Offline johnsonad

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Reply #3 on: February 15, 2014, 02:55:45 PM
A few glamor shots
« Last Edit: February 15, 2014, 02:58:48 PM by johnsonad »

Aaron Johnson


Offline 2wo

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Reply #4 on: February 15, 2014, 03:08:28 PM
Nice, I was just working on my 300b's. Maybe I'll post a shot

What is the potted bit next to the grid choke?...John

edit, I see, that's the cathode bypass cap
« Last Edit: February 15, 2014, 03:10:04 PM by 2wo »

John S.


Offline johnsonad

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Reply #5 on: February 15, 2014, 03:10:42 PM
It's hard to see in that photo but in order from left to right is the grid choke, then in black, the cathode bypass cap then the heat sink and cathode bypass resistor. The large round black shape below the cap next to the 4 pin socket is the large 10 turn pot.
« Last Edit: February 15, 2014, 03:18:02 PM by johnsonad »

Aaron Johnson


Offline johnsonad

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Reply #6 on: May 10, 2014, 09:10:48 AM
Today the grid chokes were removed and they are never going back.  We found as if a fog had been lifted once they were gone.  There was an increased clarity and ease to the music.  Decay and resonance feel natural now.  I noticed an improvement when I removed them from my SEX amp but hadn't gotten around to removing them from these amps.  Many people love them but they didn't work for me.  At least I gave them a try.

The 249k Ohm resistor I used in their place was a nice dale MF type.  Is this a resistor location that could potentially improve with a Tantalum version?
« Last Edit: May 13, 2014, 02:05:03 AM by johnsonad »

Aaron Johnson


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #7 on: May 10, 2014, 09:13:50 AM
That resistor is indeed in the signal path.  I tend to find that tants can help when there is a standing DC current, but there's nothing wrong with giving them a shot regardless.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline johnsonad

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Reply #8 on: May 10, 2014, 09:14:56 AM
Thanks Paul, I'll give them a try.

Aaron Johnson


Offline Paul Joppa

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Reply #9 on: May 10, 2014, 11:10:55 AM
I think (technical/theoretical thinking, not listening experience!) the virtue of grid chokes is in overload management. When the power tube draws grid current on transient overloads, the interstage cap and grid choke together recover more quickly than a cap-resistor combination. So if you are pushing the power limits, it will sound more dynamic. Few people realize how often we do push those limits, because SETs overload more gracefully than other topologies.

Paul Joppa


Offline Bonzo

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Reply #10 on: May 10, 2014, 10:34:19 PM
It's just me or the pics cannot be seen anymore?

Ciao!

Bisogna avere orecchio!


Offline johnsonad

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Reply #11 on: May 11, 2014, 10:39:04 AM
Marco, the photos were dropped when they switched the website over.  I'll see what I did with them and reload the pics.

For PJ/PB, the grid resistor, the 249K, that is a soft value right?  I'm good to use a 250K in the same spot?

Aaron Johnson


Offline Paul Joppa

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Reply #12 on: May 11, 2014, 11:02:40 AM
Yes the grid resistor is not a precision value. 250K is the maximum value as specified by WE (in my copy of the 1950 data sheet). significantly lower values will load the driver more heavily, leading to less gain and greater distortion, but this effect will IMHO be extremely small with values 150K or above.

Paul Joppa


Offline johnsonad

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Reply #13 on: May 12, 2014, 07:41:11 AM
Thank you for the explanation Paul!

I tried removing the cathode bypass capacitor again and it lasted all of one day without it.  Even though the signal is crossed at 80Hz before reaching the amps, that cap still carries some weight across the frequency range. Without it music looses weight and definition.  Everything feels thinner. Maybe there is a magic value I could reduce it too but the present cap sounds great if that is possible and I have little reason to change it out.

Next up, a different PF cap. More to follow.

Aaron Johnson


Offline johnsonad

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Reply #14 on: May 13, 2014, 02:10:45 AM
The Parabee's got me thinking about getting a little more life out of the driver tube.  Am I crazy to want to run a separate shunt reg tube, like the 6J6 that PB is using and use one half of the 6SN7?  I could run different halves for the left and right amp and swap in the future like the Parabees do.  If this is advisable, can you run half a heater on the driver tube or are both halves always in use?

Thanks,

Aaron

Aaron Johnson