No voltage on B1 after Speedball [solved]

feeench · 1911

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Offline feeench

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on: February 28, 2014, 01:12:21 PM
Hello everyone,

Got my Crack earlier this week, got it put together without the speedball and got it working after a bit of a scare... I should explain first that because of a bad voltmeter (I now have a new one, it wasn't an issue with a blown fuse in the old one :/) I was able to measure resistances before I fired it up for the first time but was unable to do the voltage tests. I was quite meticulous however and was fairly certain that everything would be okay, although I did notice that the LED on A8 was bit dimmer than the one to A3 but didn't think much of it until I started working out how the circuit works in my head... I realize now that this should have been a red flag. When I first plugged my headphones in, I only had audio in one channel (left)... So I went back and resoldered everything, and made sure all my connections were in the proper place. After all that, I had the same issue. No audio in the left channel (I think I could only hear what I believe to be the stereo crosstalk in the "dead" channel)... Finally out of desperation I started tapping the tubes lightly while listening over the headphones. First the 12AU7, I heard some funky harmonics while I tapped it, but no change... Then I started tapping the 6080 tube, and POP!!!! Issue seemingly resolved. I was very happy. All of a sudden the audio in the previously working channel sounded even better, and my other channel worked. I was so happy, and listened to music for quite some time. After a few days of listening, I had noted that I had random popping noises in the right channel...

Fast forward to today. I had built the PC boards for the speedball the night before and got around to installing them after work today. I also now have the ability to read voltages (Horrah!). To put it shortly, I have no (negative, actually. the needle on my volt meter moves "backwards") voltage on B1 (and therefore Terminal 1 and the rest of that path). The LED on A8 doesn't light up, nor do the two LED's on the offending "small" circuit board (there's no power going into the "O" terminal there however). I used the trick to run your ohm meter at it's lowest setting to see if the A8 LED functions properly, and it does.

I've come to the conclusion that I might have a bad 6080 tube, but I'm not entirely sure. What do you guys think? What else should I look for?
« Last Edit: February 28, 2014, 05:54:36 PM by Caucasian Blackplate »



Offline Doc B.

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Reply #1 on: February 28, 2014, 01:20:08 PM
Popping might be a tube but it might be an intermittent solder joint at the tube socket. It would have been easier to resolve the popping issue first and then add the speedball, because the two issues aren't necessarily related.

Re the speedball, PB will probably be able to suggest which terminals to look at to see if they are miswired.

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
President For Life
Bottlehead Corp.


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #2 on: February 28, 2014, 01:56:56 PM
What exactly is your voltage at T1?

You  absolutely do not have a bad 6080 based on T1 being off.

The troubleshooting recommendations depend a lot on what the actual voltage is at T1.

-PB

(PS -  I'd pull the Speedball out and get the amp working properly first)

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline feeench

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Reply #3 on: February 28, 2014, 02:36:28 PM
I'm somewhat relieved that you think the tube is fine. I'd rather not replace it. I just inspected the tube thoroughly, I can't see anything wrong with it visually...

T1 voltage is zero. It was fine before the Speedball (as far as I can gather. I don't have pre-speedball voltages unfortunately). The amp produced very nice audio before it..



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #4 on: February 28, 2014, 02:57:24 PM
Resolder the solder joint on the center leg of the MJE350 feeding T1.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline feeench

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Reply #5 on: February 28, 2014, 03:26:49 PM
Done. No change. Reading T1 sends my voltmeter "backwards" (current going in the opposite direction, right?). Just wanted to make that clear.

Here's something interesting I've noticed with my random testing... Not sure how I stumbled onto this... If I measure the 150K 2W resistor in the "R2" section of the small circuit boards with the red lead closest to the MJE350, I get different readings between the two boards. The offending board which doesn't have lit LED's reads 150K in both directions, while the board that works reads 150K in one direction, and about 27K (after settling from a spike of ~10K) in the other direction.



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #6 on: February 28, 2014, 03:30:58 PM
Yeah, you have an analog meter, and they are not all that accurate.  Dipping "below" zero when measuring voltage means that 0V is actually below the 0 mark on your meter.

What's the voltage at "I" on the offending board?  What is the resistance between T3 and "G" on the offending board.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline feeench

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Reply #7 on: February 28, 2014, 03:37:41 PM
Hold up!!! Good grief. I've goofed, big time. I should learn to not be so hasty...

Look: http://i.imgur.com/6AyGJfK.jpg

On the offending board I put the wire for "I" in the wrong spot.



Offline feeench

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Reply #8 on: February 28, 2014, 03:42:37 PM
Just made the change. Everything is perfect now. The A8 LED which was dim before is now just as bright as the A3 LED. Big thanks to you, PB. :) Cheers
« Last Edit: February 28, 2014, 04:48:55 PM by Doc B. »



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #9 on: February 28, 2014, 05:54:49 PM
No prob,

Enjoy the tunes!

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man