Help with Interference issue [resolved]

networkn · 16609

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Offline networkn

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on: June 08, 2014, 01:55:49 AM
Hi I have my crack amp resurrected after a LONG break away, and keen to resolve a problem which I couldn't really find the root cause of last time.

Essentially the issue is that my voltages and everything check out, the sound is coming through loud and clear, and seems the amplification is working ok, but there is a weird interference issue not quite like static, which I am not sure the source of.

It changes ears depending on how far in or out of the jack it is, and almost sounds like high frequency (as in how fast it occurs not sound frequency) clicking with a high pitched sound coming through as well. I can detect it with anything plugged into the headphone jack and source doesn't appear to be the problem.

Is it quite likely the headphone jack?

The sound is recorded (barely) on my phone and is available to hear here, sort of. It's much much clearer than this on my ear!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/a5hdblk1pmsm1zx/Voice%20001.m4a
« Last Edit: April 21, 2015, 07:12:24 AM by Caucasian Blackplate »



Offline fullheadofnothing

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Reply #1 on: June 08, 2014, 07:41:26 AM
Turn off your cellphone and wifi router.

Joshua Harris

I Write the Manuals That Make The Whole World Sing
Kit Packer Emeritus


Offline networkn

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Reply #2 on: June 08, 2014, 05:39:56 PM
Turn off your cellphone and wifi router.

Didn't help. What's next? When I wrote interference, perhaps I use the wrong term.

What component of the Amp could even be running at the same frequency of the cellphone or wifi ?



Offline networkn

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Reply #3 on: June 08, 2014, 05:43:32 PM
Volume doesn't have any affect on the sound issues I am experiencing.



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #4 on: June 08, 2014, 05:55:08 PM


Is it quite likely the headphone jack?

No, it most certainly isn't the headphone jack.

This could be a funky solder joint on one of the UF-4007 diodes, or elsewhere in the power supply.  With your headphones plugged in, do you get this noise in both channels or just on one side?

Also, if you used plumbers' solder or plumbers' flux, this could be a potential result.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline networkn

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Reply #5 on: June 08, 2014, 05:58:43 PM
Hi There!

I am 99% sure I didn't use plumbers anything, I bought good quality something or rather from one of the reputable speciality electronics store. The Sound moves from the left ear to the right depending how far the headphone is inserted into the jack, but I don't think I can get it to happen to both sides at the same time.

Wouldn't poor solder or joint cause voltage or resistance issues?



Offline Loquah

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Reply #6 on: June 08, 2014, 06:16:37 PM
The reason it changes sides when you move the headphone jack in/out is because the contacts in the socket are touching different contacts in the plug. If you leave jack plugged in fully, which side is the noise on?

Sounds like it might be worth reflowing your solder joints based on PB's assessment of the issue.

Check out my reviews on YouTube - https://youtube.com/c/passionforsound


Offline networkn

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Reply #7 on: June 08, 2014, 06:40:23 PM
Hi There!

On the right hand side. I'll take a look at the soldering in the next couple of days, hopefully it is an obvious problem.



Offline Loquah

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Reply #8 on: June 08, 2014, 06:44:47 PM
Cool. Good luck!

Question for the experts: can an issue that only exhibits in one channel be caused by the power supply? I would have thought that this would exhibit through both channels.

Check out my reviews on YouTube - https://youtube.com/c/passionforsound


Offline JamieMcC

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Reply #9 on: June 08, 2014, 08:51:11 PM
I believe when the headphone jack is not fully inserted what you are listening to is a mono signal and think that's why the noise you are hearing travels from the right side to both side when moving the headphone jack in and out.

Which may be helpful in isolating the problem to the right channel.

 

Shoot for the moon if you miss you will still be amongst the stars!


Offline networkn

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Reply #10 on: June 09, 2014, 12:47:44 AM
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/cxhhfm1xkai1y38/AADzvJW4NPezpzZSO691ixeHa

Just checking these are the connections you want me to reflow? When you say reflow, do you mean add more solder to, or just reheat until the solder is liquid?

Not sure if you can see from the pictures if anything is amiss already.

Do I check all voltages and resistances again after?
« Last Edit: June 09, 2014, 12:49:37 AM by networkn »



Offline Loquah

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Reply #11 on: June 09, 2014, 01:45:14 AM
Reflowing is just a matter of heating the joint until the solder turns to liquid again and adding solder only if you think it's needed.

As an example of what you are trying to fix in these cases, one of the resistors in my Mainline attenuator looked like it was soldered, but on really close inspection I found a "void" around one of the resistor leads at the joint. Reheating the joint allowed the flux and solder to reflow and this time to make full contact with both leads in the joint.

It's possible to have a "void" in the joint that you can't see so reflowing (making sure all the solder in the joint liquifies and flows) helps to remove any of these that might exist.

Check out my reviews on YouTube - https://youtube.com/c/passionforsound


Online Doc B.

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Reply #12 on: June 09, 2014, 04:21:54 AM
If you have any other tubes to try, plug them in and see if the sound changes at all. If not, it's probably a bad joint.

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
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Bottlehead Corp.


Offline networkn

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Reply #13 on: June 09, 2014, 12:03:00 PM
Hi There!

Unfortunately I don't have any spare, nor would I know where to start looking to find replacements in NZ. I was considering bringing some in from overseas, but I was waiting to get the Crack and Speedball installed first. I get my soldering iron back tomorrow hopefully.

This is the solder I have used. Hopefully it's ok.

http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=NS3013&keywords=solder&form=KEYWORD



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #14 on: June 09, 2014, 12:07:37 PM
Yeah, that solder looks good. 


Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man