Replace the selector switch?

[Downhome Upstate]

I'm going to split the output from the selector switch in my Stereomour to feed a pair of RCAs for my Crack. (The Crack volume control is a PEC 100K which has been trouble free; the Alps Blue Velvet 50K pot in the Stereomour is going to the parts bin, and a Valab 100K SMD-type 23 step attenuator is going in. For $25, its worth a listen.)

Anyway, while I'm under the hood, is it worthwhile to replace the stock selector switch, or does it make better sense to leave it alone?

If replacement is neither stupid nor a waste of money, suggestions would be much appreciated for a high-quality replacement 4 pole 3 position rotary switch based on your experience. Thanks.

[Paul Birkeland]

Getting the stock switch out without cooking the shielded cables is pretty tough.

[Downhome Upstate]

Yup. No doubt. But I do have a 28' remnant from a spool of Belden 8450 lying around, waiting to be useful. I thought I'd just cut it all off, and rewire the new switch to the inputs.
 

[Paul Joppa]

It's been my experience that cheap switches suffer from reliability issues but not from contact issues - they sound fine until they wear out. So the source selector may last many times longer than a similar level control.

[Grainger49]

I am still using the stock switch in my FP 2.  It gets some switching every week so the contacts are pretty clean.  I'm convinced that changing the selector switch will have less impact on the sound than using a better wire for the signals.  The percentage of the signal path is minute.

But others will certainly say it makes a meaningful difference.  That is just my two cents.

[Downhome Upstate]

I am still using the stock switch in my FP 2.  It gets some switching every week so the contacts are pretty clean.  I'm convinced that changing the selector switch will have less impact on the sound than using a better wire for the signals.  The percentage of the signal path is minute.

But others will certainly say it makes a meaningful difference.  That is just my two cents.

Thanks. I appreciate the 2 cents (saving them up).

[borism]

I built my stereomour with a goldpoint selector switch. It has performed very well. However, I have never compared it directly to the stock switch and it is expensive.

[crackaddict]

Are you planning on adding a set of RCAs, or using one of the existing pairs to connect the Crack? I was going to do the same thing, but then thought I'd put in a switch and a dedicated set of RCAs. I have all the parts now, but I haven't figured out where to place an extra set of RCAs, so I'm on the verge of doing what you're suggesting: just splitting the output, sending the other to RCA set 3.

If you're adding a fourth pair, where on the main board do you plan to do it?

Regards,
Derek

[Downhome Upstate]

Are you planning on adding a set of RCAs, or using one of the existing pairs to connect the Crack? I was going to do the same thing, but then thought I'd put in a switch and a dedicated set of RCAs. I have all the parts now, but I haven't figured out where to place an extra set of RCAs, so I'm on the verge of doing what you're suggesting: just splitting the output, sending the other to RCA set 3.

If you're adding a fourth pair, where on the main board do you plan to do it?

Regards,
Derek

Hi Derek,

I am going to add a 4th pair. Space permitting, they will go between the volume control and the selector switch.

Best,

Mike

[crackaddict]

Interesting idea. That's where I was going to install a 4PDT switch so I could route the audio back out, with no interaction with the rest of the Steremour. But then there's really only room towards the rear, between the power input and the high-level speaker outputs. The interference around there would be unknown in advance, even when switched to "Steremour mode"... Paul (Caucasian Blackplate) mentioned that's why they don't put them near the power input. I may just take a chance and do that.

Still contemplating the options,
Derek