Help for building CRACK with Speedball

i luvmusic 2 · 10008

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Offline i luvmusic 2

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on: July 18, 2014, 04:16:14 PM
Hi,
  I opened my email today and guess what i've got,A shipping confirmation  for my CRACK and SB.......YAY i'am soo excited.
What is the best way to approach this build?Should i build the CRACK stock form with no MOD or build the CRACK and SB at the same time?My thought is to build it stock but i would like to know if their is any extra steps to make my SB installations a little easier later.Any suggestions are welcome THANK YOU!



Offline 2wo

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Reply #1 on: July 18, 2014, 05:17:15 PM
Let me be the first. Bone stock, then add bit by bit. You get a baseline for the sound. If you have a problem with the stock build, PB will get you going in no time.

I know you want to skip ahead but in the end, this way is more fun...John 

John S.


Offline Strikkflypilot

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Reply #2 on: July 18, 2014, 10:04:51 PM
Much easier to troubleshoot if You build stock first.
And You can enjoy listening to the crack while taking Your time building the speedball boards.

It is somewhat harder to solder the speedball, everything is on a smaller scale, check that all solders conduct to avoid problems like burning transistors and other annoying issues.
You won' regret it, IMHO, enjoy!

Home system:
Sources: Ibasso DX90, Google Chromecast Audio optical out
DAC: Schiit Gumby
Amp: Bottlehead Mainline
http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php?topic=7463.0
Phones: HD800S

Office:
Sources: Iphone/ Ipod
DAC: Dragonfly Red+Jtrbug
Amp: Crack/Speedball heavily modded
Phones: HD580,HD600 grilles


Offline i luvmusic 2

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Reply #3 on: July 19, 2014, 06:25:38 AM
THANK YOU! That's what i thought STOCK first.Thanks!



Offline sadkins

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Reply #4 on: July 19, 2014, 02:07:13 PM
After my issues with my speedball upgrade, I totally agree with building the Crack base kit first.  In retrospect, I now know that it would have been a nightmare trying to troubleshoot if I built the speedball and crack as one.



Offline i luvmusic 2

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Reply #5 on: July 20, 2014, 01:35:56 AM
 Good thing i asked first before my Crack arrived and start building the crack and speedball at the sametime,That would be a nightmare for a newbie like me.I should be receiving my Crack next week it's on it's way. ;D



Offline i luvmusic 2

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Reply #6 on: August 03, 2014, 01:46:07 AM
Since the site was down for few days i decided to sand and prime/spray painted the sides of the crack transformer i hope this is not a bad thing.



Offline i luvmusic 2

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Reply #7 on: August 03, 2014, 09:57:34 AM
    Crack Manual  page 19 this is what it reads,At the uneven end route the wires under the
terminal strip behind the nine pin socket. Attach and solder the black wire to A9. Insert the red wire end through A5 and then A4, and solder both A4 and A5.MEANING A4 and A5 IS SHORTED?THANKS!



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #8 on: August 03, 2014, 10:17:11 AM
Yes, as the directions specify and the photos display, A4 and A5 need to be wired together.

Painting the transformer is OK, a little bit of light sanding is also OK, but it's best to leave as much varnish on there as possible.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline i luvmusic 2

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Reply #9 on: August 03, 2014, 10:24:18 AM
  I just want to make sure B4 i screw it up and i  sanded the transformer sides a little bit  just to removed some bumpy stuff.THANK YOU!



Offline i luvmusic 2

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Reply #10 on: August 03, 2014, 11:59:37 PM
 OMG it took me 12 hours to build the CRACK i was always checking and double checking every step but still i screwed up 3 times anyway i'am done all i have to do now is decide what finish i have to use for the base.All my resistance are all  with in the spec. and the voltage check is with in spec. so far i like what i'am hearing with this AMP and it's dead silent  too.Few more weeks it will be the Speedball going in but for now i want to enjoy the amp in stock form.



Offline i luvmusic 2

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Reply #11 on: August 04, 2014, 07:14:00 AM
 Since the crack is running a little warm would it help to run cool if i disconnect both tube heaters from the transformer and used my existing external DC Power Supply for my tube adapters?



Offline JamieMcC

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Reply #12 on: August 04, 2014, 08:50:23 AM
For a couple of $ you can replace the stock feet with rubber doorstops which give the Crack about a inch ground clearance which really helps with ventilation. I don't think it looks out of keeping myself but I am sure many will be repulsed by the idea.

(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fcdn.head-fi.org%2Fa%2Fa9%2F900x900px-LL-a9e2e876_010.jpeg&hash=9ba1d68bfbcb9e6df20b3b6b02c703fa9fe3ebf0)



 

Shoot for the moon if you miss you will still be amongst the stars!


Offline i luvmusic 2

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Reply #13 on: August 04, 2014, 09:00:06 AM
I should give that a try  once i'am done finishing the base,Thank You!



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #14 on: August 05, 2014, 09:47:15 AM
Since the crack is running a little warm would it help to run cool if i disconnect both tube heaters from the transformer and used my existing external DC Power Supply for my tube adapters?

Is it the power transformer, or the entire Crack?

Powering the heaters externally will reduce the load on the power transformer a little bit, but I would imagine that the amp overall will run just as hot.  (Do note that the power transformer is not all that taxed by the Crack circuit).

If you're using an external DC supply for heating, a 6 to 6.3V supply at 4.5-6A is optimal.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man