Noise, Heat, and Sparks: Oh My!

[MrPotatoSalad]

Continuity test (Black/Red probe):
Top:
C/B:.6
E/B:.6
Rest are not connection.

Bottom:
B/C:1.3
C/B:.6
E/B.6
E/C:.6
Rest are no connection.

New:
C/B:.6
E/B:.6
Rest are no connection

[MrPotatoSalad]

2N2222 (Black/Red probe):
Top:
C/B:.66
E/B:.66
Rest are no connection.

Bottom:
C/B:.66
E/B:.66
Rest are no connection.

New:
C/B:.66
E/B:.66
Rest are no connection

[MrPotatoSalad]

Bottom TIP50 out of board (Black/Red probe):
C/B:.6
E/B:.6
Rest are no connection.

Transistors are fine. Something else is funky.

[Paul Birkeland]

Yeah, perhaps you could borrow a camera from a friend this week to nab some decent photos of the PCB?

-PB

[MrPotatoSalad]

Yeah, perhaps you could borrow a camera from a friend this week to nab some decent photos of the PCB?

-PB

Could you tell me what to look for on the board for now?

If anything, the top of the board is in better condition than the bottom. I also disconnected the red and black wires so the two parts of the board are completely separate. Took both TIP50s out and they were fine. Only one that changes readings is the bottom one when I put it in the board, but the top is the problem.

[Paul Birkeland]

I really don't know what other options there can be.  There aren't a ton of options left for what's wrong, but you have one half of the board that works, one half that doesn't.

One other thing you can do is to flip the board around, so that the "Top" side is facing the other way, then see if the same side of the board continues to give you the same problem.

Beyond that, it's a matter of what's different between the non-working side and the functional side.

-PB

[MrPotatoSalad]

Replaced both TIP50s. Same resistance for the TIP50s on board (meaning the good side of the board changed its connectivity again when put in). Everything is opposite by switching the board around.  What is now top LEDs are on. However, the LED closer to center in what is now bottom board is on and lights up immediately. The one towards edge is out. Right small board and A3 LEDs are on. A8 has a very faint glow. Don't know if reflection or just barely on.

T1:20
T2/4/5:70

[MrPotatoSalad]

I'll be damned. My webcam takes better close-ups than my phone. Hopefully these work.

And the 2N2222s are not connected either visually or via multimeter.

[Paul Birkeland]

First things first, your TIP-50 transistors are not mounted correctly, with those long legs exposed, you're asking for trouble.  They also may be harder to solder in properly like that.

In photo 2, I see what looks like two solder blobs on the 2N2222 touching each other.

In photo 2, I can see that the TIP-50 legs aren't poking through the solder pads, this could really cause some problems.

In photo 4, I can see a similar solder blob on the 2N2222, it would be a good idea to get that off and trim the lead nice and short.

-PB

[MrPotatoSalad]

First things first, your TIP-50 transistors are not mounted correctly, with those long legs exposed, you're asking for trouble.  They also may be harder to solder in properly like that.

In photo 2, I see what looks like two solder blobs on the 2N2222 touching each other.

In photo 2, I can see that the TIP-50 legs aren't poking through the solder pads, this could really cause some problems.

In photo 4, I can see a similar solder blob on the 2N2222, it would be a good idea to get that off and trim the lead nice and short.

-PB

2N2222s aren't connected but I will clean it up. Maybe there is a jump in electricity?

[MrPotatoSalad]

Still the same 70 70 70 20 V after cleaning it up. However, the lights on the top board do go on, it is just very dim so I never noticed before. LED on A3 lights up with rest of LEDs, but then goes out.

[Paul Birkeland]

We can sell you half of a Speedball, that might be the best route to go for now.

-PB

[MrPotatoSalad]

We can sell you half of a Speedball, that might be the best route to go for now.

-PB

Would I have to buy half the kit. Could I just get the PCB?

[MrPotatoSalad]

Would this work: http://www.avagotech.com/pages/en/leds/subminiature_lamps/domed-resistor_led_series/hlmp-6000/

Also, there is two other versions that have the suffix E0010 and G0010. Are they all usable?

[Paul Birkeland]

You want the HLMP-6000 without any suffix.

You'll have to contact replacementparts(at)bottlhead(dot)com in terms of what's available. 

-PB