cathode bypass cap arrangement

ee · 3758

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline ee

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 71
on: November 26, 2014, 05:48:26 AM
I have tinkered around a bit now with the cathode bypass caps and would like an opinion. I installed Mundorf EVO Al/oil 100uf cap to replace the cathode bypass cap (220uf). I am considering getting a couple more of these 100uf and wiring parallel. Space be damned is it good idea bad idea to parallel in that position or do it and see what happens? Thanks
Eric
« Last Edit: November 26, 2014, 06:23:02 AM by ee »

Bottlehead Stereomour 2a3
Fostex FE206En in Vulcan (BIB BLH)
VPI Scout 1.1 with classic platter
Lyra Delos
Manley Chinook phono pre
Creek Destiny 2 CD
Audio Art Power Cables


Offline Daikini

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 44
Reply #1 on: November 26, 2014, 06:12:51 AM
If I remember correctly, the 220 uF bypass cap value is used because it's a part that's used in lots of kits. You can get a way with lower values. 

I think 100 uF is plenty.

I have a 47 uF Solen in that position in my Stereomour, and it works fine.

See this thread: http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php?topic=5499

David Gray

Empire 208/Jelco 750d/Nagaoka mp300 -> Seduction -> Stereomour ->Klipsch Heresy IIs w/ dual Polk PSW10s
Sony CDP-CX235 -> Schiit OptiModi -> Sex 2.1 -> Madisound BK-12m/Hifiman HE400


Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19745
Reply #2 on: November 26, 2014, 10:17:25 AM
Sorry, this doesn't answer your question.  Back in the Paramour days Bottleheads were using a charged 9V battery for the cathode bias.  It replaced the resistor and capacitor.

I think, someone correct me if I'm wrong, this should also work for the Stereomour.

This is an obscure reference to using various 5 pin driver tubes and how to bias them in a different product, and hasn't been relevant for many years now.

In the original Paramour monoblocks, the cathode bypass cap was 100uF.  PJ generally recommends 1/GM as a starting cap value (in micromhos, this yields microfarads, which is convenient).  This recommendation suggests that 200uF is a good starting value.
« Last Edit: November 26, 2014, 12:16:04 PM by Caucasian Blackplate »

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline howardnair

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
    • Posts: 329
Reply #3 on: November 26, 2014, 12:14:48 PM
I also used a 47uf  in my stereomour -it is a mundorf M-tube cap



Offline Paul Joppa

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 5831
Reply #4 on: November 30, 2014, 01:09:17 PM
Grainger, I remember (now that you remind me...) the battery bias on drivers - works like LEds in that the bias is fixed. The battery is on trickle charge from the cathode current, so it's important to understand the battery's limitations!

For the 2A3 however, the fixed bias voltage is a problem as the tube ages - it will change the current too much for consistent operation. That's the real reason for using a resistor, it's self-compensating.

The capacitance should have a low impedance relative to the intrinsic cathode impedance which is 1/gm; this should be the case at some low frequency - I use 5Hz unless I need to cut it close. That works out to

C = gm/(2*pi*f)

or, at 5Hz, C = gm/31.4

That's 159 uF if gm is 0.005 mA/v (5000 micromhos). It's 40uF at 20Hz (the resonance of the plate choke/parafeed capacitor in Stereomour) which is at least an arguably good point to choose. I used 47uF in Paramount.

Paul Joppa