I suggest testing the casing for magnetism- if it's steel, it can be removed with a twist-action pipe cutter (about $10 at a hardware store), the type that has a cutting wheel and a thumb screw to apply pressure. Tighten screw, rotate cap in cutter, repeat 'til the ends pop off (do cut right at the end, btw).
You'll also notice an extraneous solder joint in there- the external leads are different than the internal leads, so you can get rid of that issue as well. A little heatshrink and hot melt glue and you'll have a cap that works great for hifi, without the performance robbing bullet-proofing aspects.