Pinging dmannnnn - Clear Coat Type?

[karl]

dmannnnn -

I'm about to order the burgundy Hammerite from TCP Global. How many coats of hammertone finish did you use? I would also like to know whether you used a gloss or satin clear coat.

Thanks,

Karl

[Jim R.]

Hi Karl,

I can't speak for dmannnn, but I used something like a total of 12 coats in two applications a couple weeks apart.  The finish feels to me like a semi-gloss or eggshell and to me really feels like a mildly textured powdercoat job.  I myself did not use anything over the final coats.  I think you'll see that it is good and hard.

I've only used black so far, but have three brand new cans of the red, deep green, and gold to try -- hopefully tomorrow.

Somewhere in the general topics is a thread where I outlined my procedure -- basically just follow the instructions on the cans and things will work out fine.  BTW, I used three light coats of the SEM primer, about 5 minutes apart andthen waited, I think, about 90 minutes before starting with the hammerite.

Good luck, but remember, with lots of light coats, it's really hard to mess this up.  I'm blind and was able to do a great job without any help.

-- Jim

[karl]

Jim -

Thanks for the suggestions.

Why did you use so many light coats? Does the Hammerite easily run?

Regards,

Karl

[dmannnnn]

I used the rustoleum hammertone, one light coat and two heavy.  I sprayed with the top plate flat so it wouldn't run with the heavy coats.  I did not use a clear coat, but I would if I were to do it again.

[Mudhiker]

Don't topcoat hammerite.  Clean the material, scuff sand, prime, and apply as per the instructions.  2-4 moderately thick coats, so that each is thoroughly wet, should do.  Hammered-finish spray paint is a bit different than regular spray paint.  It's worth buying an extra can and trying it out on a scrap to experience how it behaves.  In addition, give it a good long cure time before handling.  Minimum would be 48 hours in my opinion and really it won't be fully cured and done off-gassing for a week or two.  Once again, a test piece done at the same time is a good idea.  The paint can look totally good and hard and not even yield under a fingernail, and then you flip the piece over on your bench and it ends up with a big dent or tear out because it is still gooey.

[Jim R.]

Karl,

I did that many coats because when the plate was dry from the first few I noticed that I had one corner that was too thick and glossy, and another spot where a bug oor something  marred the finish, so the second time I put enough on to cover those spots.  Like dmannnnnnn, I painted it on a flat surface so it wouldn't run or sag.  Also make sure to shake the can well, and keep shaking as you paint -- it improves the hammered effect.

-- Jim

[dmatt]

I'm not sure how helpful this will be to you guys, but I found the Hammerite tech specs and application instructions at the Masterchem site:

http://www.masterchem.com/pdfs/hamappguide.pdf

Good info for me on how to apply with gun, brush, or can.

Also, if the metal is aluminum, galvanized, or zinc sprayed, a primer is recommended. Otherwise, prep the metal and apply without primer.

David

[Grainger49]

David is right, aluminum needs a good primer.  Zinc chromate (sp?) is one that I have used.  The problem with aluminum is that it oxidizes almost immediately after cleaning and the oxide usually doesn't bond well.