Modded Crack - add bypass cap, choke and Cree diodes

ALL212 · 144844

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Offline larcenasb

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Reply #90 on: May 02, 2020, 06:15:49 AM
Thanks, Paul!

I'll look into getting a 10K ohm 10W resistor to do the job.

Specifically, I'm looking to roll a couple of film bypass caps (1uF 400-800V) onto my last power supply film cap. With this extra time, I'm upping the dose of my crack addiction... I just want to see if I can tell any differences easily, or at all.

Please see attached picture. I plan to use copper alligator clips with the bypass caps for easy swapping back and forth. How would you go about doing this safely? After shutting off the amp, should I join the resistor to the caps' leads while the bypass cap is clipped on, or should I wear rubber gloves to detach the alligator clips, then use the resistor to discharge the bypass cap? Thanks for your time!  :)

Lowell B.


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #91 on: May 02, 2020, 06:59:59 AM
The way I do it is to hold the resistor with insulated needlenose pliers by the body, then discharge the power supply to the chassis.  It's a lot easier to do it that way rather than trying to get a big 10W resistor connected between B+ and ground.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline larcenasb

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Reply #92 on: May 02, 2020, 07:06:23 AM
Thanks! But where specifically on the power supply would you touch the resistor's lead to? Please see photo.
« Last Edit: May 02, 2020, 07:09:32 AM by larcenasb »

Lowell B.


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #93 on: May 02, 2020, 07:34:55 AM
You'll probably find that it's super easy to use terminal 5 on the octal socket.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline larcenasb

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Reply #94 on: May 02, 2020, 07:53:08 AM
Okay, just to be clear, the process for safe cap discharge goes:

1) Power off amp
2) Touch 10K ohm resistor to octal terminal 5 & anywhere on chassis (please see photo to verify)
3) freely handle alligator clips or leads of any cap in the amp

...or for a specific cap,  touch resistor ends to each lead of the cap to be handled.
« Last Edit: May 02, 2020, 07:57:00 AM by larcenasb »

Lowell B.


Offline larcenasb

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Reply #95 on: May 02, 2020, 10:33:53 AM
More digging led to my finding this post by Paul Joppa (about discharging 220uF 250V PS caps):
________________________________________________________________________

 Re: Building a capacitor discharger - what size resistor to use?
« Reply #1 on: January 26, 2012, 12:07:35 PM »

"Perhaps we should look for a resistor that will survive even if the circuit is still accidentally powered. Let's say you want to use a 5-watt resistor; then since power equals voltage squared over resistance, the minimum resistance is 8000 ohms. The time constant RC is less than 2 seconds, so if you leave it connected for 10 seconds (5 time constants) the voltage will decay by a factor of 175 (e to the 5th power) - i.e. to a bit over a volt. 10K is probably easier to find.

"For a 1 watt resistor, you'd need 40K and it would take 50 seconds to discharge. I'm not that patient, myself."
________________________________________________________________________

So, again, to be perfectly clear, the process for safe cap discharge should go:

1) Power off amp
2) Touch 5W 10K ohm resistor to octal terminal 5 & anywhere on chassis for 10 seconds (please see photo to verify)
3) freely handle alligator clips or leads of any cap in the amp

...or for a specific cap,  touch resistor ends to each lead of the cap to be handled for at least 10 seconds.

Is this correct? Thanks for bearing with me.   :)

Lowell B.


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #96 on: May 02, 2020, 10:57:27 AM
You're missing the step where you take your meter and measure the DC voltage left in the supply. 

For a power supply like the Crack, I don't worry much if there's 10V or less left in the supply, that's low enough for me.  In a low voltage power supply with tens of thousands of micro-farads of capacitance, that isn't necessarily the case.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline baseonmars

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Reply #97 on: May 03, 2020, 12:41:16 PM
Here's my take on some free form soldering to replace the rectifier diodes with Cree Schottky diodes.

Each diode runs at around 31.5ºC after an hour or so of use. The copper legs are bound in place with a single strand of very thin wire then soldered in place. There's a bit of UV cure resin thrown in for extra mechanical strength.

I wasn't entirely sure this was a good idea when I started but I think it turned out pretty well. There are sound improvements to be heard in term of less weird high pitched noises which I'd attributed to RFI - maybe it was just a dodgy solder joint - I guess I'll never know for sure. This plus some bypass caps, diode grounding, a shield for the 12AU7 and an alps pot have take the crack as far as I want to. Maybe one day I'll take it all out and try each step in a different order to figure out where the biggest gains were had.

The noise floor is incredibly low and the sound is exactly where I want it. I find myself listening all day long.
« Last Edit: May 03, 2020, 12:59:28 PM by baseonmars »



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #98 on: May 03, 2020, 01:12:01 PM
in term of less weird high pitched noises which I'd attributed to RFI
diode grounding
If you implemented the modification to use antiphase diodes to break the signal ground and earth, then that would get rid of weird high pitch noises.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline baseonmars

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Reply #99 on: May 03, 2020, 01:25:55 PM
If you implemented the modification to use antiphase diodes to break the signal ground and earth, then that would get rid of weird high pitch noises.

Hi Paul, I did! They removed some of the noises but not entirely. I ended up putting a sheet of aluminium insulating foil up on a wall and that got nearly all of it (I look like a loon, but 100% the government can't see my thoughts anymore ;))... in all seriousness there's a cell tower about 100 feet from our house.

I made each change separately - tube shield, antiphase diodes to ground, bypass cap, cree diodes and finally an additional bypass cap. The noises stopped after the cree diodes but I already had the caps at this point (2.2uf and 220nf I believe) so I added the to the final electrolytic. I think the tube shield had the largest effect but it made some other subtle sounds more apparent.

I was done... in reality I'm going to add some copper shielding inside the case - as fond as I am of the silver foil it's starting to attract the wrong kind of attention.
« Last Edit: May 03, 2020, 07:34:20 PM by baseonmars »



Deke609

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Reply #100 on: May 03, 2020, 01:30:29 PM
In all seriousness, that first pic looks like art. A "found object" sculpture: a cyborg centaur. If it ever fails, you can sell it as a postmodern commentary on the state of the individual in the age of automation, digitization, miniaturization ...

cheers, Derek



Offline baseonmars

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Reply #101 on: May 03, 2020, 01:33:47 PM
In all seriousness, that first pic looks like art. A "found object" sculpture: a cyborg centaur. If it ever fails, you can sell it as a postmodern commentary on the state of the individual in the age of automation, digitization, miniaturization ...

Sounds like I could have my retirement fund sorted with a few well timed, elaborate failures ;)



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #102 on: May 03, 2020, 01:53:18 PM
So something else you could try regarding the cell tower.  Install one end of a Z5U cap to each tab on each RCA jack.  Twist the free ends together, then run a wire from those ends to the ground tab on the IEC power entry module.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline ALL212

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Reply #103 on: May 04, 2020, 01:36:18 AM
@baseonmars

Way cool implementation of the diodes!! Should I build another Crack I think I’d use your method.

Aaron Luebke


Offline Love Rhino

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Reply #104 on: June 08, 2020, 06:33:58 AM
Speaking of cree diodes!  When installing the diodes (using the pic I found earlier in the thread for wiring) am I removing the exising wiring to the power?  I believe 18 and 19L?