I would suggest looking at both the thread of my Crack Chris linked to, as well as the link to the original build (first line of the rebuilt Crack thread).
The Switchcraft jack has no markings for L, R or G. However, the L and R solder pins are of different heights. I copied the L & R wiring of the original jack from the manual and assumed that the same spot on the headphone plug will be applied to the Switchcraft jack. I have not tested this yet to confirm whether L&R are actually correct. The pictures of the rebuild thread provide a nice clean view of this.
The outside sheath of the jack is ground, although there is a little "hook" I assume is meant for soldering the ground wires. With the initial build I soldered everything to that hook, by soldering each item individually and then re-soldering the entire connection again at the end. It was quite a painstaking process getting all the resistor leads onto that little hook. It is not easily visible on the pictures, but you can identify the hook quite easily on the spec sheets.
With the rebuild, I decided to use a different approach and you can see that everything got soldered to the top of the sheath. Based on the wire routing, I soldered wires and resistors to both the left and the right of the sheath. Thus, one ground wire and one resistor soldered on the attentuator side of the sheath and another ground wire and another resistor to the other side. This was definitely much easier than the aforementioned way of connecting the resistors / wires.
I should note that the sheath is quite bendable. On the original build, it would bend almost every time I removed the top plate. With the rebuild, I find that to be less of an issue. Regarding the resistors, you only need 1/4 W, but I find that the 3W resistors add structural rigidity (if soldered as on the new build) to the sheath and I doubt the 1/4W resistor would add much rigidity.
« Last Edit: May 17, 2015, 05:42:23 AM by grausch »
Gunter Rausch
Modded Bottlehead Crack
Modded Stereomour with Two-tone Orcas
