Any good WOOD glue is fine. White, yellow, Elmer's glue will all work. The standard Gorilla Glue not so well. But their wood glue is fine.
Very true but the differences between them are important.
Rather than brand, call them, as Grainger did, White, Yellow and a third, light brown.
White is the easiest to work with because it has a long open time for fiddling the parts into alignment. It's bond is stronger than the wood itself so more than adequate.
Yellow has become the norm which is silly because all it adds is increased water resistance at the cost of very short open time. The latter makes it a non-starter for multiple piece glue-ups like cabinets.
Light brown, the latest addition to the Titebond line, Titebond III, has the water resistance of Yellow and the open time of White. It also creates a somewhat stronger bond than either. Great, right? But it dries hard as rock which makes it difficult to remove from squeeze out on faces and murder on plane and scraper blades.
All three will squeeze out and dry on and into the wood which will result in marring the finish. Sanding it heats up the glue driving it deeper into the wood and making the situation worse unless you sand deep enough to create an even uglier trough. For Goverment Work just monitor the drying, usually 30 to 40 minutes and peel off the excess when it gets rubbery. Never wipe off the excess right after clamping with a damp cloth, see Sanding.
What I recommend is use the Bottlehead approved taping of the chassis pieces together so they fold up into square after applying glue to the miter faces but
entirely tape the face area adjacent which protects them from the glue. The bit of glue that might squeeze under the tape is more easily dealt with.
Best practice though is to wipe shellac on the chassis pieces before glue-up and after sanding them with 220 grit paper, being careful not to get shellac on the miter faces. The shellac resists the glue perfectly and seals in any resins or minerals in the wood that show up only after finishing.
Especially if you use band clamps, shellac is mandatory. It also looks great under varnish like Sherwin-Williams Classics Fast Dry Oil Varnish (friends don't let friends use Urethane). Or you can continue wiping on multiple coats of shellac to create a beautiful finish.
Pix show band clamp in action and a 12 coat Amber Shellac finish on Padauk.
