Crack + Speedball Bad Channel - Bad Transistor?

son_et_lumiere · 1338

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Offline son_et_lumiere

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on: November 07, 2015, 03:32:22 PM
I just finished assembling a crack + speedball kit.  This is my second assembly, and I'm a very experienced solderer, so the procedure went very quickly.  No issues with the crack in stock form.

I suspect that the speedball has a bad transistor (2N2907 or MJE350) based on the following:

-One channel is very very faint and distorted.  The other works perfectly.
-I swapped the two small PC boards and the problem followed the bad board, ruling out basically everything off of the board.
-I have reheated every joint at least five times.  Both transistors were completely removed using desoldering braid, and then reinstalled.  Continuity checks across the board pass. The diodes are installed in the correct direction.
-Voltage checks pass with the exception of terminal 1 (5), which reads 185V.  Note that terminals 2 and 4 also read 185 due to high wall voltage.  No continuity exists between 1 and 2 or 4 and 5.
Good-side big board LEDs light immediately, all other LEDs light after the heaters warm up with the exception of the bad board LEDs, which do not light.

I suspect the 2N2907 over the MJE350 only because the 2N2907s were both very corroded... I can't really make out the markings.  The 2N2222As were legible and in good shape, which was my basis for distinguishing.  I did my best to clean up the leads on the 2N2907s before installing (acetone, steel wool).

Any thoughts?  I can have replacement transistors here from newark in a couple of days, but I thought I'd give the collective experience of the forum a shout first.




Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #1 on: November 07, 2015, 05:58:53 PM
If you always get 185V out of one board, this is generally due to a swapped R1 resistor, or the center leg of the MJE350 being insufficiently soldered.

Do both LED's on the 9 pin socket light up?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man