I've posted about this before, here and in other places, but not recently.
The criticism you describe is based on an incorrect understanding of how magnetic flux works in core materials. Really, it's that simple.
Magnetic materials have a range of flux levels over which their small-signal behavior is pretty consistent; there is no magical zero-flux point. The places where the behavior deviates are the extremes where the core approaches saturation. The fluctuation due to small signal variations anywhere in the linear region looks pretty much the same no matter what the mean flux level is.
Incidentally, the push-pull guys have the opposite myth - that the amp sounds much better if the DC currents are perfectly balanced and there is zero net average flux. Both myths are equally persistent and are completely incompatible with each other.
I'll take this opportunity to talk about the parafeed capacitor issue as well, since it is even more persistent. In parallel feed, the signal current flows through the tube, the parafeed capacitor, the output transformer, and back to the tube. It is isolated from the power supply by the plate choke. In series feed the signal current flows through the tube, the output transformer, and the power supply, before returning to the tube. That means that the power supply (mostly the final capacitor) is in the signal current loop. The power supply capacitor is usually a large electrolytic, and is unlikely to sound any better than the parafeed cap.