Stereomour II Finally Underway (update: IT WORKS)

[rmryan]

I finally started.  Had the kit for months, was waiting for the real "buried in snow" Winter, and it hasn't really come to upstate New York yet.  Not that I particularly want it to, knock on wood.  Can't wait to hear how it sounds with my Orcas.

Build is going pretty smoothly.  Got a new Hakko 888D, and using a big spade tip.  Dialed the temp down for the 9 pin sockets, which worked well.  Felt like I was less in danger of melting stuff.

Same finish I did on the Crack, which I really like.  Rust-Oleum Hammered Bronze.  Finish got beat up again, will have to quickly shoot some touch up when build is done, hopefully I can just mask off with cardboard and touch it up quick.

I really appreciated the power/transformer measurements in the middle of wiring it up, nice reinforcement that things are proceeding as they should.

Couple of pictures, more to come as the build continues.

Rich

[Doc B.]

Looks nice! The hammer finish paint takes forf***ing ever to polymerize. Usually best to wait for about two to three weeks. Shawn tried baking it once to speed up the hardening process, but it turned brittle and cracked.

For a little bit different look I am going to be experimenting with some of the high temp ceramic spray paints for engines and exhausts. They are claimed to be pretty rugged and similar to Cerakote and other spendy high tech baked on ceramic finishes used on firearms.

[Deluk]

Beware that these types of blue masking tapes are only easy to remove and kind to your finish for a limited time. After that they tend to bond to the finish and are likely to remove some of it when you get round to trying to take it off. Build is looking good.

[Doc B.]

Very good point. Don't leave it on there for more than a day or three. I've screwed up a few items by leaving blue tape on for weeks rather than days.

[kgoss]

I like to build with the plate on a nice soft bath towel.  That way I don't have to worry about scratching the top.  I do put the amp upside down in the base for voltage checks though since that gives it a solid foundation and I don't have to worry about it moving while doing the checks.  For tall tubes like the 2A3s you would need to rest the base on two stacks of books or some other solid surfaces to have clearance for the tubes.

[rmryan]

Thanks for the nice words, everybody.

Deluk, thanks I hadn't given the blue tape much thought.  I will remove it now and put it on the base itself, or go kgoss' way and put an old (so my wife doesn't kill me) towel down.

 

[denti alligator]

Looks great!!

You have the same BH stuff I do, mostly. Let me know how you think the Stereomour II stacks up to the SEX 2.0. Though I have Magnequest iron in mine. What speakers are you using?

[rmryan]

Thanks, Sam.  Yes we do have a similar BH lineup, my SEX also has the C4S and the upgraded iron, I should make my list more precise.  Funnily enough, I'm also using Senn HD600's with my Crack.  Not funny I guess when you consider what a great match they are.

What speakers are you using?

I have a pair of Blumenstein Orcas with Blumenstein sub in my living room with the SEX.  I have a second set of Orcas in my office currently hooked up to the Quickie/Quicksand combo (currently playing some live Umphrey's McGee).  That's where the SEX is going once the Stereomour is done.

I really enjoy the Orcas with the SEX for just relaxing listening, which is most of what I do these days.  I'm hoping the additional power of the Stereomour will give me some more dynamics and "kick butt" if you will for those times when I want it.  Honestly I'm not entirely certain what to expect, but have heard several times what a great match they are.

This has been a great hobby.  Every time I think I'm spending too much money I remind myself I don't dig drugs, fast cars or fast ladies (other than my wife).... 

 

And Deluk, thanks again, the blue tape was starting to get a little gummy on the paint, and I'm going to have to clean it off good.  I would certainly have left the tape on for the whole build if you hadn't said something.  Currently sitting on a nice clean towel. 

Update:  the blue tape had already stripped some of the paint.  What looked like a gummy residue was actually a removed layer of paint exposing the layers underneath.  Ugh.  Oh, well.  Will make it look as good as I can. 

Rich

[denti alligator]

Blumenstein, some day.

I'm looking to upgrade this summer to the Stereomour, too. The SEX would at first stay as a headphone amp. Once I get the speedball and some nice caps in the Crack I'll probably switch it out and use the SEX upstairs with some old B&W speakers.

Keep us updated.

[Doc B.]

My HT was initially set up with a Stereomour on the mains and SEX on the center and another SEX on surrounds. I am now running all Stereomours and it's a subtle but worthwhile improvement, even on the surrounds. The dynamic presentation is better on the Orcas when driven by the Stereomour. Seems like just about the ideal amount of power for them.

[denti alligator]

I was considering using the SEX as a center, but don't really have anything for the surrounds. Plus, I need an Oppo with analogue out in 5.1...  some day.

[rmryan]

The dynamic presentation is better on the Orcas when driven by the Stereomour. Seems like just about the ideal amount of power for them.

Whoa, Doc!  Now I really can't wait to hear them with the Stereomour.  I better get building!

Rich

[rmryan]

Input wiring complete.  Couple more photos.  At this point I've resigned myself to beating the crap out of the finish on the top plate and bell, as even though I waited for weeks every touch leaves scratches or marks in the paint.  The bell end is attaching itself to the cloth I've got it sitting on and pulling up swaths of lint.  I'm just going to have to repair it as best I can once the build is done.  What a mess.

Boy do I have trouble with stripping the CAT5 cable.  Did much better this time around then I did with the Crack.  Practiced a little bit.  Also doesn't hurt that I kind of started "going for it" knowing that as an IT guy I had access to all of the spare CAT5 I needed.  Ended up not needing any more than was in the kit.  Doesn't look great but I have continuity on all of the lines, so I'm calling it good.

[Sugar Man]

I don't think Hammerite ever dries! That's why I went the powder coat route - although it takes a bit of grinding to ensure clean ground connections.  It's all worth it, once you get that bad boy up and running.

[Natural Sound]

First of all the temperature has to be right. Then I usually wait a month after spraying the chassis. Its usually very durable after that.