getting that "mirror" finish to the top plate

denti alligator · 2036

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Offline denti alligator

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on: May 28, 2016, 03:18:33 PM
I'd like to try and get the mirror finish on my upcoming Stereomour build. Reading through the threads here I've gleaned a few things, but am still unclear about the details.

I'd like to try it myself (i.e., not send it somewhere to have it done--unless this can be done for very cheap, and quickly). Am I right to understand that it takes successive stages of fine sanding? How many stages? Starting with what grain; and ending with what grain? I'm assuming I use the "sponge" style sanders? Then there's metal polish. What brands are best? And at what stage do I use it?

Lastly, should I add any protective coating when I'm done?

Thanks in advance!

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline JamieMcC

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Reply #1 on: May 28, 2016, 10:29:01 PM
I'd like to try and get the mirror finish on my upcoming Stereomour build. Reading through the threads here I've gleaned a few things, but am still unclear about the details.

I'd like to try it myself (i.e., not send it somewhere to have it done--unless this can be done for very cheap, and quickly). Am I right to understand that it takes successive stages of fine sanding? How many stages? Starting with what grain; and ending with what grain? I'm assuming I use the "sponge" style sanders? Then there's metal polish. What brands are best? And at what stage do I use it?

Lastly, should I add any protective coating when I'm done?

Thanks in advance!

Probably start with 240 grade paper followed by 320, then 500,   then wet sand with 800, 1000, 1200 grade at that point you will need to switch to progressively finer paste compounds  over in the UK I would use a G10 (often marketed as a 1000 grade swirl remover followed by a G3 then a very fine liquid or jewellers rouge paste.

Don’t underestimate how much work this is.

You can normally buy individual sheets of the sand papers at your local automotive paint supplier. Also it would be worth dropping into a local metal fabrication shop it would not take long to polish it up with the right gear to hand, half an hour maybe and might even work out less expensive than buying all the products to do a diy job yourself the compounds will be expensive and you will probably need to buy $20 worth of each grade just to use a cap full or two of each..

A quick and easy alternative would be covering the top plate in something like a mirror chrome vinyl wrap


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mirror-Chrome-Vinyl-Wrap-Self-Adhesive-Silver-Gold-Black-Red-Blue-Green-Purple-/272035562223?var=570848822956&hash=item3f569542ef:m:mcrZExOyLAjZYv7TS4rvgzg

« Last Edit: May 28, 2016, 10:43:04 PM by JamieMcC »

Shoot for the moon if you miss you will still be amongst the stars!


Offline denti alligator

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Reply #2 on: May 29, 2016, 05:19:57 AM
Thanks.

Would the vinyl wrap warp with heat?

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline denti alligator

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Reply #3 on: May 29, 2016, 05:23:00 AM
Sounds like taking it to a metal shop would be easiest. I'll ask around.

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline JamieMcC

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Reply #4 on: May 29, 2016, 07:47:03 AM
Thanks.

Would the vinyl wrap warp with heat?

I guess it would be good to check how hot the stereomour top plate gets vinyl wrap from the likes of 3M for automotive wrapping withstands a fair bit of temperature on cars during the summer.

Shoot for the moon if you miss you will still be amongst the stars!


Offline mcandmar

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Reply #5 on: May 29, 2016, 11:06:21 AM
Well funny you should ask..

I sanded it flat with 200 grit, then 400, then a wet sand with 1200 to remove the brushed finish that Doc painstakingly created.  After that i moved onto a cloth buffing wheel on a drill with a bit of Autosol metal polish.

I also tried a dual action orbital sander with foam and wool pads with a variety of cutting compounds (normally used for car paintwork), and i found the Autosol and buffing wheel worked the best.  The surface will never be a perfect mirror as there will always be micro scratches that you will see when viewed at certain angles, its not a true mirror or chrome finish, its just highly polished metal. That said i am really happy with the finish as the reflections are nice and clear and crisp.

I tried two different types of clear coat and neither of them would take to the surface properly as they just cant grip onto the surface.  In both cases i was able to scrape the coating off using my finger nail so i gave up in the end and just left it bare.

Only thing to keep in mind the metal is soft and easily scratched so you have to be mindful about what you use to polish out the finger prints, which brings me onto another point, its best avoided if you suffer from any form of OCD :)

The photo was taken just after i finished assembling the Crack so the surface is covered in grubby finger prints, beauty shots to follow shortly...
« Last Edit: May 29, 2016, 11:14:33 AM by mcandmar »

M.McCandless


Offline JamieMcC

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Reply #6 on: May 30, 2016, 12:05:13 PM
I dont know what I am more shocked by the mirror finish or the choice of drink  :o

Shoot for the moon if you miss you will still be amongst the stars!