Recent Posts

91
Crack / Re: Crackling, popping, etc,.etc.
« Last post by Paul Birkeland on October 03, 2024, 04:29:42 AM »
From the build photos, it looks like either lead free solder was used, or low soldering iron heat, possibly both. 



You'll have to look at the products you used to be sure that you have 60/40 leaded solder.  If you do, then crank up the heat on your soldering iron and reheat all of the joints in the amp until the solder flows out, noting that the power switch and the LEDs on the 9 pin socket can usually be skipped in this process.
92
Crack / Re: Crackling, popping, etc,.etc.
« Last post by Climber240sx on October 03, 2024, 03:41:08 AM »
Apologies for the for the reply to the moderators, I realized after I sent it. I'm obviously new to forums in general.  Thank you for the attachment instructions.

Vln is " Voltage line to neutral" or AC line Voltage
Vt is " Voltage on the Transformer
B3 & B6 Resistance was spot on @ 2.9kohms
Vt7 and 9 are 6.38V ( within range )
93
Mainline / Re: Mainline and Grado RS1x combo?
« Last post by Happy Ghost on October 03, 2024, 03:13:44 AM »
I use the Mainline with the GS-3000x and it makes a fantastic combo.. Keep in mind that  the  Mainline is very neutral but detailed.. S3X is also very good.. I used it a lot with the Grado Hemp... There might still be a S3X 3.0 kit on sale ... Just ask Doc/Eileen..
But if you want more slam and oomph then maybe C2A or Crack along with a good high impedance headphone will be the way to go..
94
Mainline / Mainline and Grado RS1x combo?
« Last post by Coldsnap on October 02, 2024, 09:42:59 PM »
Anyone know how the 38ohm Grado RS1x would be on the mainline? Thanks!
95
Stereomour II / Re: Impedance switch for SII?
« Last post by dpwoos on October 02, 2024, 06:21:13 PM »
It's not a secret, I think this has been posted before. Here's the circuit. They are DPDT switches, except the balanced/unbalanced which is SPDT.

I plan on implementing S.E.X. 4/8 ohm switching using a single 4pdt switch - 2 poles for each channel. My question is about the routing of the OT wires and the placement of the switch. Do I need to worry about hum? Thanks!
96
Yes, that's a Crack 1.1.  Yes, you can covert it to run on 220, 230, or 240V.  Yours is wired for 120V for what it's worth, not 110V.

You can e-mail [email protected] to ask about purchasing a replacement Crack manual. 

That kit does look to be very, very nicely made.
97
Crack / Crack 1.1 with speedball 110v to 220v or use a step down transformer
« Last post by Moimanuh on October 02, 2024, 02:26:51 PM »
Hi all, I purchased a pre built bottlehead crack 1.1 with speedball and it didnt come with a manual. So I would like to know if it can be converted from 110v to 220v or is it better to use a step down transformer? I have attached a picture so that we are 100% confirmed that it's a 1.1 version.Thank you
98
Crack / Re: Crackling, popping, etc,.etc.
« Last post by Paul Birkeland on October 02, 2024, 08:12:01 AM »
Please do not submit posts for moderation.  That sends out a company wide e-mail and is used to alert us to things like spam, advertising, or inappropriate posts. 

In your voltage posts, you posted "Vln=122.3V", is that your AC line voltage?

B3 and B6 connect to terminals 7 and 9, so they can't be spot on if 7 and 9 aren't. 

To post a picture, click on "Attachments and other options", click "choose file" under the Attach: heading.  Select your file, then click Post.
99
Crack / Re: Crackling, popping, etc,.etc.
« Last post by Climber240sx on October 02, 2024, 07:21:56 AM »
Yes, this is a crack kit.  I would love to post a picture, but I cant figure out how.
100
Legacy Kit Products / Re: A little help identifying please
« Last post by Jasonb on October 02, 2024, 05:59:59 AM »
Thanks, Paul, I guess I’ll pass then. Who knows what all has been done to this one